tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21248845091287552132024-02-19T09:13:35.835+00:00Costa Brava Knitting Holidays & RetreatsKnitting holidays with likeminded folk on Spain's stunning Costa Brava: a combination of yarn, sunshine and sight-seeing. Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comBlogger78125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-72173174258615589162017-06-16T16:51:00.003+01:002017-09-17T18:44:34.727+01:00 Eat, Knit, Chill ... you're invited ...<span style="font-size: large;">Come and join life-style blogger, Bonny Bonafilla, in her family village, Sant Feliu de Guíxols, on Spain's beautiful Costa Brava for a knitting/ cultural retreat. Relax with sun, stunning scenery and some like-minded folk. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnS3giDot-qxmhQ8r30F0WVPuVhTuWs9EDk_ByLT0XR0Ajt3X9H0Uflx_tFuVGDvb5tHC4Oa0rV8Mgz4wV5QBakhiTlL_l3Lh3B293RTVpwioONLjyoic4kQaQczhlM41O_ZHZ9AXUCse/s1600/Eden+Roc+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnS3giDot-qxmhQ8r30F0WVPuVhTuWs9EDk_ByLT0XR0Ajt3X9H0Uflx_tFuVGDvb5tHC4Oa0rV8Mgz4wV5QBakhiTlL_l3Lh3B293RTVpwioONLjyoic4kQaQczhlM41O_ZHZ9AXUCse/s320/Eden+Roc+.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Set in a beautiful horse-shoe bay, Bonny's village will be your base. Your hotel, the four-star Eden Roc Hotel, is located on a stunning headland just a short walk from the centre of Sant Feliu. Surrounded by colourful terraced gardens your sea-view room will be a cosy home-from-home. You will enjoy the tranquility of its garden setting along with all the services you'd expect from a modern spa hotel with the advantage of having all the amenities of a bustling Catalan village only a short walk away.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Stay with the group, and enjoy the company of like-minded people with similar interests, or feel free to break off on your own from time to time to explore the village or to enjoy the Spa facilities and Ayurvedic treatments offered by the Eden Roc Hotel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Our group will comprise no more than 15 knitters, and, over the course of our stay, there will be a series of knitting workshops hosted by Bonny, a life-long knitter and popular craft, travel and lifestyle blogger. On arrival you will be given a complimentary yarn kit to work on during your stay. Details of the project will be provided closer to the time. In the evenings, after dinner, there will also be a nightly knit-along for those guests who wish to participate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">During your stay you will have a chance to explore the beautiful coastline around the village and take a tour around our ancient monastery, which was, according to one account, founded by Charlemagne himself. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Bonny, married to a local boy, fluent in Spanish and passionate about history, architecture and photography knows the area well and is the perfect guide to show you around this beautiful, ancient land.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Check out our promotional video: </span><br />
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-41451217050258034472017-06-16T16:50:00.000+01:002017-06-16T16:50:11.449+01:00How to save Dropped Stitches ...Back in May one of my guests asked if I could show her how to rectify the situation when a stitch gets dropped. The technique varies depending on what type of stitch you're working at the time.<br />
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Part A below deals with how to fix a dropped stitch on a knit row, and Part B deals with a purl row fix-up.<br />
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A: Knit row fix-up in stocking stitch</h3>
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So here's what we start off with:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdK4JrrBGUR4taszabnydmynYgMw2MGqm2_60DNcl4IYDHesHOSD6NPqJHpN0lm9R0ZaIYj6-SgPIPP5uXBNhBF-9A7kwsa_8lW9HKIJm_LwPxSt966QJYQzYhjfJRlIMxdYCZVeXOVPRD/s1600/drop+stitch+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdK4JrrBGUR4taszabnydmynYgMw2MGqm2_60DNcl4IYDHesHOSD6NPqJHpN0lm9R0ZaIYj6-SgPIPP5uXBNhBF-9A7kwsa_8lW9HKIJm_LwPxSt966QJYQzYhjfJRlIMxdYCZVeXOVPRD/s640/drop+stitch+1.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Dropped Knit Stitch working in Stocking Stitch</td></tr>
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1. Slip a stitch-holder - or a safety pin - through the dropped stitch so that it won't unravel any further.<br />
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2. Slip stitches, without twisting them, from your right needle to your left needle until you get to the dropped stitch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF09cP8CQI99JugC20_8OxyHUwEb7At1z6i32w8uIsaNfxmPuirk-lq4cXC0BoOme5r2tnfHB_JWpNdVdlZ9wZRLrdlIBXwyvfvbDdj57Z1S1MGAOnj6Ot2mpQmpFynaJh9ZQi8wtIJMKx/s1600/drop+stitch+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF09cP8CQI99JugC20_8OxyHUwEb7At1z6i32w8uIsaNfxmPuirk-lq4cXC0BoOme5r2tnfHB_JWpNdVdlZ9wZRLrdlIBXwyvfvbDdj57Z1S1MGAOnj6Ot2mpQmpFynaJh9ZQi8wtIJMKx/s640/drop+stitch+2.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">1. Save dropped stitch with a stitch-holder or safety pin<br />
2. Slip stitches to get to the dropped stitch</td></tr>
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3. Slip a spare needle that's slightly thinner than the needles you've been working on into the dropped stitch from front to back as shown in the photo below. I like to use a thinner needle than I've been working on as this tends to pull the tension of the repaired stitches slightly tighter. I find this to be helpful as repaired stitches are often a little looser in tension than the stitches around them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAh9e1mCGinDnCKl8gF3LJ9Y6ziW09KgCOggcx6T5mgoFCGoMqikglTBVjg5oe7GGEzoe2xLeJN-Tre7Q16kzBOrNVLzJEV6Gp2bGSpgrVJQuvm63dxCe1eOf5wV3rV52lDeGzifySUyXJ/s1600/drop+stitch+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAh9e1mCGinDnCKl8gF3LJ9Y6ziW09KgCOggcx6T5mgoFCGoMqikglTBVjg5oe7GGEzoe2xLeJN-Tre7Q16kzBOrNVLzJEV6Gp2bGSpgrVJQuvm63dxCe1eOf5wV3rV52lDeGzifySUyXJ/s640/drop+stitch+3.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></div>
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4. Slip the back bar that corresponds with the dropped stitch onto the inserted needle as well. Make sure that you've got the correct back-bar, because if you use the one above or below by mistake the work will pucker.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHGfGNsaJN2p7a5J6YExvdTpVyc0Vs8_XQKpb0OTJqsa5TMdRRsk1qw4IvMbnN-Lcbz6QLBoXVUCXYvAPVfqnbuI6O4QD6RzLVmgEZ1PI20zMPcwt4Kxr6EfPZYC_bH5e1ZwIeQHF_o91j/s1600/drop+stitch+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHGfGNsaJN2p7a5J6YExvdTpVyc0Vs8_XQKpb0OTJqsa5TMdRRsk1qw4IvMbnN-Lcbz6QLBoXVUCXYvAPVfqnbuI6O4QD6RzLVmgEZ1PI20zMPcwt4Kxr6EfPZYC_bH5e1ZwIeQHF_o91j/s640/drop+stitch+.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">4. Slip needle under back bar that corresponds with the dropped stitch</td></tr>
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5. Using the left needle, draw the dropped stitch over the back bar on the inserted needle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOTrIiOfVnGZ721Enkz9EPF89q3y8yT_TkQLH17zF6fnNMK_sHtkNdrlbsPaa2Mv603Hbhi76p_rm8p6TkfhfKdpJckoXMOccuRa0MUDUBla0w0SFA8-xogc-7PH7HkMSmg4NyGy9Jgdow/s1600/drop+stitch+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOTrIiOfVnGZ721Enkz9EPF89q3y8yT_TkQLH17zF6fnNMK_sHtkNdrlbsPaa2Mv603Hbhi76p_rm8p6TkfhfKdpJckoXMOccuRa0MUDUBla0w0SFA8-xogc-7PH7HkMSmg4NyGy9Jgdow/s640/drop+stitch+5.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">5. Slip dropped stitch over backbar using left needle</td></tr>
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6. Slip the saved stitch back onto the left needle or carry on up the ladder of dropped stitches if there is more than one row of them, repeating steps 2 to 5 until all the dropped stitches have been saved up the row.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9WuBmZHHM02WkFaxh6ua9wqa5o_SjOYksgiOrAIH7wKl5jtyMrfblk9WkAx7xlo5wfoHA_4vPwA60oGKRzxv7exkB9Bj7jO7tfLJu4NugNjQ7a3da2M7TMDKkbBnu4b9WQXvE7-HcT1b/s1600/drop+stitch+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9WuBmZHHM02WkFaxh6ua9wqa5o_SjOYksgiOrAIH7wKl5jtyMrfblk9WkAx7xlo5wfoHA_4vPwA60oGKRzxv7exkB9Bj7jO7tfLJu4NugNjQ7a3da2M7TMDKkbBnu4b9WQXvE7-HcT1b/s640/drop+stitch+6.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Work up the ladder of dropped stitches until you reach the top</td></tr>
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B: Purl row fix-up working stocking stitch</h3>
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Now I'll be totally honest here: if I find a dropped stitch on a purl row, I simply turn the work around and fix it as though it were a knit stitch. Fixing knit stitches is easier than fixing purl stitches, so why make life more difficult than you need to?<br />
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But if, for whatever reason, you want to fix it purl-wise, this is how to do it:<br />
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1. Stop your dropped stitch from unravelling any further by securing it with a stitch holder or a safety pin.<br />
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2. Slip stitches from the right needle to the left needle until you reach the dropped stitch.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyM1WvpJIFivpCzDclmrbD2KQClg0zXQP0lQRRXwzsJ4FNuRwWOO9muaQGXvegvtwSgDtIK6W65sFow-aAols_A2FqOTMscCJH-wbXcYfgzxf4nr85zu8vmhQCent6bXK5oR6jTcwXe3pJ/s1600/drop+stitch+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyM1WvpJIFivpCzDclmrbD2KQClg0zXQP0lQRRXwzsJ4FNuRwWOO9muaQGXvegvtwSgDtIK6W65sFow-aAols_A2FqOTMscCJH-wbXcYfgzxf4nr85zu8vmhQCent6bXK5oR6jTcwXe3pJ/s640/drop+stitch+7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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3. Make sure that the back bar that corresponds with the dropped stitch is sitting in front of the dropped stitch (see photo below). As was the case on our knit row fix-up, if you chose the wrong back bar the work will pucker.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdr-IxORzDLqCPCOmkP6E6PU5QPqNgic3Vo-n4yXC44yLSaOg3i5TbjwsQn9qXRXAwR5SgOg22Zaw29E5eTe7J3JvZn4oAf1pQu8MeWd-pXlYJtXqzjm2B-3jF6CcnQ4dUn6TgpjfrF-YJ/s1600/drop+stitch+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdr-IxORzDLqCPCOmkP6E6PU5QPqNgic3Vo-n4yXC44yLSaOg3i5TbjwsQn9qXRXAwR5SgOg22Zaw29E5eTe7J3JvZn4oAf1pQu8MeWd-pXlYJtXqzjm2B-3jF6CcnQ4dUn6TgpjfrF-YJ/s640/drop+stitch+8.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></div>
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4. Use a spare needle that is a size or two smaller than you're working on. Insert the needle into the dropped stitch from the back to the front as shown below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcu_wOvSL2thUqA-B6U5A2qKyTHTErBF0yK_6xWinkjuzqoDPlUp_lP3rbREiVln4xH2us8avr88izTyeJPhCh-QbO74b6kypRsGFry2ZsURdqwitB896NQSgNAfZpdQzQO10xXtGJeAXb/s1600/drop+stitch+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcu_wOvSL2thUqA-B6U5A2qKyTHTErBF0yK_6xWinkjuzqoDPlUp_lP3rbREiVln4xH2us8avr88izTyeJPhCh-QbO74b6kypRsGFry2ZsURdqwitB896NQSgNAfZpdQzQO10xXtGJeAXb/s640/drop+stitch+9.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP3GyM4SNYO0jeqxK0XE7iN5rpm3n0tPfknp8ez3sGbZXRKWRUFXinH4sD0EoV8DKloaB-vQRUeJ7wgoeRspWZYVnPSqqbSk1jZWeAxeeCgwJsrsYmQ9fPtFWbh78hmHglrf19ch47H-rl/s1600/drop+stitch+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP3GyM4SNYO0jeqxK0XE7iN5rpm3n0tPfknp8ez3sGbZXRKWRUFXinH4sD0EoV8DKloaB-vQRUeJ7wgoeRspWZYVnPSqqbSk1jZWeAxeeCgwJsrsYmQ9fPtFWbh78hmHglrf19ch47H-rl/s640/drop+stitch+10.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></div>
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5. Insert the left needle into the dropped stitch from front to back, and draw it over the back bar.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIFvG0ivFulzQlGUeMqSlizd3Ty4y_LcuTqjtX-0K3SH8MgNUPSAzUKWYm0q3jhGmGy6Ll8OFO_0jpFjYOLVRmhuSQ1xJOCQASmft_j8QMso-ARYTcbiGKqdaUBcixOyRuCvroAkLfcH6/s1600/drop+stitch+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMIFvG0ivFulzQlGUeMqSlizd3Ty4y_LcuTqjtX-0K3SH8MgNUPSAzUKWYm0q3jhGmGy6Ll8OFO_0jpFjYOLVRmhuSQ1xJOCQASmft_j8QMso-ARYTcbiGKqdaUBcixOyRuCvroAkLfcH6/s640/drop+stitch+12.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></div>
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6. Pull the back bar through the dropped stitch to replace the lost stitch that had previously been there.<br />
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7. Place the <i>saved</i> stitch back on the left needle, or work your way up the ladder of dropped stitches if there are rows of dropped stitches until you've saved them all. Between each step of the ladder you will have to slip the saved stitch off the inserted needle in order to move the corresponding back bar to the front it i.e. to the position shown in the photo below step 4 above. Just slip the saved stitch off, hold it between your forefinger and thumb and lift the back bar over the top of the stitch so that it sits as shown in the photo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ-F2pgaJVPfQIx_HauGGVo95dYdOf4qbRGabmTHzQfmiPOSMFIp3CZFBLAkjjKYWCyv3zWvxEhQegraKcCL5H9C8QvBiRgVzdhc0qbA-mg3DzawYmH2MUjbeLdwawKqeMV4NvaKsyAUXs/s1600/drop+stitch+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Saving Dropped Stocking Stitches" border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ-F2pgaJVPfQIx_HauGGVo95dYdOf4qbRGabmTHzQfmiPOSMFIp3CZFBLAkjjKYWCyv3zWvxEhQegraKcCL5H9C8QvBiRgVzdhc0qbA-mg3DzawYmH2MUjbeLdwawKqeMV4NvaKsyAUXs/s640/drop+stitch+13.jpg" title="Costa Brava Knitting" width="640" /></a></div>
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You may find that the tension along the ladder of saved stitches is a little too loose when you're done. Don't worry too much about this. As you knit on it will automatically go some way towards correcting itself, and if it's still obvious by the time you're done you can wash your knitting and leave it to dry. When it's dry you'll find that the tension has sorted itself out. The process of washing and drying can correct any number of tension anomalies in your work.<br />
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All the best for now and happy knitting!<br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; line-height: 30.8px;">Bonny x</span></h2>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-69653896438760343042017-06-14T18:52:00.001+01:002017-06-14T18:52:12.376+01:00Eat, Knit, Chill ... you're invited ...<span style="font-size: large;">Come and join life-style blogger, Bonny Bonafilla, in her family village, Sant Feliu de Guíxols, on Spain's beautiful Costa Brava for a knitting/ cultural retreat. Relax with sun, stunning scenery and some like-minded folk. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnS3giDot-qxmhQ8r30F0WVPuVhTuWs9EDk_ByLT0XR0Ajt3X9H0Uflx_tFuVGDvb5tHC4Oa0rV8Mgz4wV5QBakhiTlL_l3Lh3B293RTVpwioONLjyoic4kQaQczhlM41O_ZHZ9AXUCse/s1600/Eden+Roc+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFnS3giDot-qxmhQ8r30F0WVPuVhTuWs9EDk_ByLT0XR0Ajt3X9H0Uflx_tFuVGDvb5tHC4Oa0rV8Mgz4wV5QBakhiTlL_l3Lh3B293RTVpwioONLjyoic4kQaQczhlM41O_ZHZ9AXUCse/s320/Eden+Roc+.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Set in a beautiful horse-shoe bay, Bonny's village will be your base. Your hotel, the four-star Eden Roc Hotel, is located on a stunning headland just a short walk from the centre of Sant Feliu. Surrounded by colourful terraced gardens your sea-view room will be a cosy home-from-home. You will enjoy the tranquility of its garden setting along with all the services you'd expect from a modern spa hotel with the advantage of having all the amenities of a bustling Catalan village only a short walk away.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Stay with the group, and enjoy the company of like-minded people with similar interests, or feel free to break off on your own from time to time to explore the village or to enjoy the Spa facilities and Ayurvedic treatments offered by the Eden Roc Hotel.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Our group will comprise no more than 15 knitters, and, over the course of our stay, there will be a series of knitting workshops hosted by Bonny, a life-long knitter and popular craft, travel and lifestyle blogger. On arrival you will be given a complimentary yarn kit to work on during your stay. Details of the project will be provided closer to the time. In the evenings, after dinner, there will also be a nightly knit-along for those guests who wish to participate. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">During your stay you will have a chance to explore the beautiful coastline around the village and take a tour around our ancient monastery, which was, according to one account, founded by Charlemagne himself. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Bonny, married to a local boy, fluent in Spanish and passionate about history, architecture and photography knows the area well and is the perfect guide to show you around this beautiful, ancient land.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Check out our promotional video: </span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uiIfkHbFVN4" width="560"></iframe> <span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">... and our different itineraries for a date that suits: -</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.costabravaknitting.com/p/uk-workshops.html">Knit, Walk, Chill ... Barcelona: Sunday 16th April to Thursday 20th April 2017</a> </span><span style="color: red; font-size: x-small;"><b>Sorry, but this holiday has now been fully booked</b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.costabravaknitting.com/p/knit-walk-girona.html">Knit, Walk, Chill ... Girona: Saturday 20th May to Tuesday 23rd May 2017</a> </span><b style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Sorry, but this holiday has now been fully booked</span></b><br />
<b style="color: red; font-size: small;"><br /></b><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.costabravaknitting.com/p/knitting_14.html">May Bank Holiday Knitting/ Spa Retreat, Sant Feliu : Friday 26th May to Tuesday 30th May</a> </span></span><br />
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<b style="color: red;"><br /></b><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.costabravaknitting.com/p/sant-feliu-october-2017.html">October 2017 Sant Feliu Knitting Retreat: Monday 23rd October 2017 to Friday 27th October 2017</a></span></div>
Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-74552433009247778492017-06-14T18:49:00.002+01:002017-06-14T18:49:33.306+01:00Stitching for stress-relief ...Gosh it's been a strange old week. Emi has been away on his school trip to Picardy, leaving me with a lot of time on my hands to get on with other things. Mr B had got quite excited about the idea of a child-free spell when we could wine and dine and carry-on like people with no great amount of responsibility to tie them down. But then his surgeon telephoned to tell him that the clinic could take him in for his knee op yesterday - bang in the middle of our hedonistic plans. He ummed and ahed a bit, and wondered whether they could possibly do it on Friday instead (the child is due back tomorrow evening). But common sense caught up with him and he duly went under the knife yesterday afternoon.<br />
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And, happily, it looks like the surgery was a great success.<br />
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In the meantime I've spent a lot of time hanging around waiting for the next thing to happen: trying to jolly him along as he anxiously waited for his slot in theatre, sitting quietly with him whilst he slept off the after-affects of the anaesthetic, keeping him company when he had to over-night in the clinic and didn't have anyone else to talk to. And, as is my way, I brought along some cross-stitch to help with the stress of worrying and the boredom of waiting. In situations like this, when I can't concentrate on anything too involved, I find that the simple, colour-guided process of cross-stitch is hugely helpful. *Breathe and stitch. Stitch again. Take another breath*. Repeat from * to * for as long as the agony lasts. I can just about cope with hospitals, and waiting for a loved one in surgery downstairs, if I remember to breathe and stitch ...<br />
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So after all that angst, this is where I've got to:<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-53306418308378969132016-12-28T20:18:00.002+00:002016-12-28T20:18:58.527+00:00La Sardana Yesterday was Boxing Day - or <i>Diada de Sant Esteve, </i>as it's known in this part of the world. To celebrate the village went dancing in the <i>Passeig del Mar</i>. They laid on a live band, everyone brought their dog, and the young and the old and everyone in between came out to dance the <i>Sardana</i> in the bright Christmas sunshine.<br />
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You see this is the home of the Sardana, the traditional folk dance of Catalonia. It all kicked off several centuries ago right here in the Empordá, and whenever there's a party there will always be a few Sardanes (plural) danced in the course of the merry-making. The dancers move in circles, holding hands. In each circle there is an experienced dancer, who leads the others through the steps.<br />
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For the fast parts - the <i>tirada de llargs</i> - the dancers hold their hands at shoulder height, and for the slower parts - the <i>tirda de curts</i> - the dancers have their hands at waist height. </div>
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On a very superficial level it doesn't look that desperately complicated, but when you get into the whole composition of the dance it's another world. There's an opening and a closing section and sections danced at different beats. It's far from simple or random. There's a whole framework of elaborate choreography that has to be followed.<br />
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My lovely sister-in-law, Neide, who hails from Brazil and has the natural rhythm of a Latina, was intrigued. 💃 💃💃 And before long one of the ladies left a circle and came over to get her involved. We weren't able to stay for the entire afternoon, but if we had I think Neide would have cracked the the Sardana and been dancing like a pro. It would, on the other hand, have taken me a lifetime, but then I'm not one of nature's dancing prodigies ... 🤷♀️<br />
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For any good Sardana party you need a Sardana band. And yesterday we had the real deal. They're called a <i>cobla. </i>They comprise 11 musicians and a drummer. There are 10 wind instruments, a double bass, and a drummer with a very, very small drum called a <i>tambori.</i></div>
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It was great fun, and a lovely slice of authentic Catalan culture to garnish our family Christmas.<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-42858586952227402312016-09-04T09:34:00.000+01:002016-09-04T09:35:59.742+01:00Farewell to Summer ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Farewell to a wonderful Costa Brava summer. It was warm, golden and gone too soon.<br />
Thank you to all our lovely guests.<br />
And here's to the autumn ...<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-62231522934126906982016-08-29T07:49:00.003+01:002016-08-29T07:49:45.229+01:00Perfect beach cardigan ...<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Dancing Script"; font-size: 24px; font-stretch: normal; font-weight: normal; margin: 0.75em 0px 0px; position: relative;">
Perfect beach cardigan ...</h3>
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<b><u><br /></u></b>I've just made the perfect beach cardigan for covering up with as the evenings get a bit chillier. It's still lightweight and airy, which makes it perfect for summer evenings and dining al fresco as the sun sets over the bay. It feels casual enough to pull on over a bikini if you want to cover up on the beach - hence the name!<br /><br />And it's knit in my wonderful own-label double knitting bamboo in the aptly-named colourway: Sandy Beach. This pattern makes a generously sized cardigan that will measure 48cm or 19" from arm pit to arm pit with the wool un-stretched. If you'd like it a bit smaller or larger you can adjust it by adding more / removing some pattern repeats. The pattern will repeat over 6 stitches and four rows. I used 570 g of wool, which totals 12, 50g balls of double knitting bamboo yarn, which totals about 1,200 metres of yarn. This yarn knits to a tension of 22 stitches x 28 rows on a 10cm x 10cm square in stocking stitch.<br /><br />Just read on for the pattern:<br /><br /><a name='more'></a><br /><a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="more"></a>I always start with the biggest pattern piece, and in this case that's the back.<br /><br /><b><u>The back</u></b><br /><br />Using 3.75 mm/ UK size 9/ US size 5 needles cast on 98 stitches.<br /><br />Row 1: K1 *yfwd, k2, k2 tog, k2*. Repeat from * to * to last stitch, k1.<br />Row 2: purl<br />Row 3: K1, *k2, k2 tog, k2, yfwd*. Repeat from * to * to last stitch, k1.<br />Row 4: purl.<br /><br />Repeat rows 1 to 4 until work measures 38 cm/ 14". On my tension this was after I'd completed 96 rows.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /><br /><br /><u>Shape the armholes </u><br /><br />1. Working on a right-side row (Row 97 on my tension): Cast off 6 stitches and knit to the end of the row in pattern. You should finish this row with 92 stitches on the needles.<br />2. Wrong-side row (Row 98 on my tension): Cast off 6 stitches and purl to the end of the row. You should finish this row with 86 stitches on the needles.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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3. Continuing to work in pattern, cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of each of the next 12 rows so that you end up with 74 stitches on the needle, having cast off 6 stitches from each side. On each row you need to remember how many stitches have been cast off from that side, and pick up the pattern repeat on each row where it would have been if no stitches had been cast off. For example on the first of these rows, you will cast off the edging k1 stitch, so on the second row you'll start with either a yfwd or a k2 - depending on whether you're on the first of the third row of the pattern repeat. It's easy if you write down the pattern repeat sequence and score off each stitch that you've cast off as you go. On the purl rows it's not so complicated, but it helps if you repeat the same exercise so that on the next knit row you can check whether you've accurately knit the row by checking which stitch you ought to have finished on by working backwards from how many stitches you've cast off at that end of the knit row with your purl-row cast-offs.<br /><br />Carry on working in pattern until work measures 60 cm/ 23.5" and shape the neck<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMN2xsFsleA2iXGXGgJBMqSXYFc43uIP55RM6IbIdZnXHdhQIMIuCAUZhWNzJ2kdmyQ_Ad5m-g0T42WwvlG9oCAWAEfsIdvc1egHPDUWiZdvebpT-bI8oQDEbt6W4oI8rzwEOowAhdvoj2/s1600/perfect+beach+cardi+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="color: #78cc11; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration: none;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMN2xsFsleA2iXGXGgJBMqSXYFc43uIP55RM6IbIdZnXHdhQIMIuCAUZhWNzJ2kdmyQ_Ad5m-g0T42WwvlG9oCAWAEfsIdvc1egHPDUWiZdvebpT-bI8oQDEbt6W4oI8rzwEOowAhdvoj2/s640/perfect+beach+cardi+12.jpg" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.0980392) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 5px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /><u>Shape the neck and the right back;</u><br /><br />1. Working on a right-side row (Row 159 on my tension): work 25 stitches in pattern, k1. Cast off 22 stitches. Work 25 stitches in pattern and k1. You will now have two sides, each of which has 26 stitches.<br />Each side is now worked separately, and the live wool will be on the back right-hand side.<br /><br />Shape the right back:<br /><br />Work 7 rows in pattern, and cast off on a right side row.<br /><br /><u>Shape the left back:</u><br /><br />Join the wool, and work 7 rows in pattern to match the right side. Cast off on a right side row, and you're done.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /><br /><b><u>Front left side</u></b><br /><br />Cast on 50 stitches.<br /><br />Work in pattern as for the front until your work measures 38 cm/ 14". It's a good idea to keep an accurate row count, so you'll know to match the number of rows both front and back so that they come out exactly the same size. On my work I completed 97 rows before starting to shape the armholes and the V-opening in the centre.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Shape the armholes starting on a wrong-side row:<br /><br />1. Row 98 (on my tension) cast off 6 stitches and purl to the end of the row. By the end of this row you will have 44 stitches on the needles.<br />2. Work row 99 in pattern with no stitch decreases.<br />3. On Rows 100, 102, 104, 106, 108 and 110, all wrong-side purl rows, continue the armhole shaping by casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of each of these rows, and carrying on to the end of the row in purl.<br />4. At the same time shape the V-neck by casting off one stitch every 6th row, starting on row 103, i.e. you will start rows 103, 109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139, 145, 151, 157, 163 and 169 by casting off one stitch and working the remaining stitches in pattern.<br />3. Work row 170 in pattern. By this stage there will be a total of 26 stitches on the needles.<br />4. Cast off knit-wise.<br /><br /><br /><u><b>Front right side: </b></u><br /><br />Cast on 50 stitches.<br /><br />Work in pattern as for the front left side until your work measures 38 cm/ 14". As I've said it's a good idea to keep an accurate row count, so you'll know to match the number of rows both front and back so that they come out exactly the same size. On my work I completed 96 rows before starting to shape the armholes and the V-opening in the centre.<br /><br />Shape the armholes starting on a right-side row:<br /><br />1. Row 97 (on my tension) cast off 6 stitches and purl to the end of the row. By the end of this row you will have 44 stitches on the needles.<br />2. Work row 98 in pattern with no stitch decreases.<br />3. On Rows 99, 101, 103, 105, 107 and 109, all right-side knit rows, continue the armhole shaping by casting off 1 stitch at the beginning of each of these rows, and carrying on to the end of the row in pattern.<br />4. At the same time shape the V-neck by casting off one stitch every 6th row, starting on row 102, i.e. you will start rows 102, 108, 114, 120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150, 156, 162 and 168 by casting off one stitch and working the remaining stitches in pattern.<br />3. Work rows 169 and 170 in pattern. By this stage there will be a total of 26 stitches on the needles.<br />4. Cast off knit-wise.<br /><div>
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<u><br /></u><u>The sleeves (both the same)</u><br /><br />These are knit in the round from the shoulder down.<br /><br />With the right side facing, and starting at the middle of the bottom armpit, where the side seams join cast on 122 stitches evenly all the way round using a 2 stitch i-cord bind on. This gives a slightly raised binding all the way round the arm hole.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Cast off the 2 stitches of the i-cord and join the bind-on stitches to knit on circular needles.<br /><br />Rows 1 to 8 : knit 1, work in pattern row 1 to last stitch, knit 1.<br />Remember that when knitting in the round the even-numbered rows will be simple knit rows, and not purl rows as was the case when we were working on the flat.<br /><br />Row 9: K3, K2 tog. [carry on in pattern row 1 to last 2 stitches: K2 tog. This will leave 120 stitches.<br />Row 10 and all following even rows: knit.<br />Row 11: K 2 tog, K2 tog, K2, yfwd. Carry on in pattern row 3 to last 6 stitches: K2, K2 tog. K2. (118 stitches)<br /><br />Row 13: K1, K2 tog, K2. Carry on in pattern row 1 to last 5 stitches: K2 K2 tog, K1 (116 stitches)<br /><br />Row 15: K2 tog, K 2 tog, yfwd. Carry on in pattern row 3 to last 4 stitches: K2, K 2 tog (114 stitches)<br /><br />Row 17: K2 tog, K1. Carry on in pattern row 1 to last 3 stitches: K1, K2 tog (112 stitches)<br /><br />Row 19: K 2 tog. Carry on in pattern row 3 to last 2 stitches: K2 tog (110 stitches)<br /><br />Row 21: K1, K2, K2 tog, K2. Carry on in pattern row 1 to last 7 stitches: K2, K2 tog, K2 tog, K1 (108 stitches)<br /><br />Rows 11 to 21 give the stitch patterns for the arm shaping. Carry on repeating these rows until the arm feels a comfortable width for your own lower arm: i.e.<br /><br />Row 23: as Row 11. (106 stitches)<br /><br />Row 25: as Row 13 (104 stitches)<br /><br />Row 27: as Row 15 (102 stitches)<br /><br />Row 29: as Row 17 (100 stitches)<br /><br />Row 31: as Row 19 (98 stitches)<br /><br />Row 33: as Row 21 (96 stitches)<br /><br />Row 35: as Row 11 (94 stitches)<br /><br />etc. etc.<br /><br />I kept decreasing until I had 38 stitches on my needles (at the end of row 91. Then I kept working in pattern with no further stitch decreases until row 110 at which point I cast off. My arms measured 46 cm / 18" from the i-cord bind on to the cuff, which gave me a bracelet length sleeve, but you can carry on if you'd rather have a longer sleeve until you get it the perfect length for you. You should also check the fit of the sleeve width after row 79, when you will have 50 stitches, and after row 85 when you will have 44 stitches to see whether those sizes better fit your arm. Just try it on and see how it fits. I've chosen these rows to stop decreasing at as they will give you an easy to remember K1 pattern to last stitch, K1 row that you can work easily rather than having to remember to pick up the 6 stitch pattern repeat part way through.<br /><br />Cast off knit-wise when you've got a sleeve that's perfect for your arm.<br /><br />Sew the front pieces to the back with shoulder and side seams.<br /><br /><u>Shape the front button/ button-hole bands and shawl collar as follows:</u><br /><br />Using 3.25 mm circular needles with a 60 cm or 80 cm cord, and with the right side facing you pick up 75 stitches along the front right hand side, 49 stitches along the front right hand V, 25 stitches across the back of the neck, 49 stitches along the front left hand V and 75 stitches down the left front.<br /><br />You will have a total of 273 stitches on your needles. For this reason, even though the collar is worked back and forth on the flat, it's better to use circular needles with a fairly long cord to accommodate the total stitch count comfortably.<br /><br />Work in seed stitch i.e. k1, p1 all the way across the row for 5 rows.<br /><br />Work five button holes to go on the front right hand side as follows:<br /><br />Row 6: k1, p1 to last 75 stitch section: k1, k2tog, yarn forward (yfwd), k1, work the next 16 stitches in seed stitch, (i.e. with 20 worked stitches on the right needle) k2tog, yfwd, k1, work the next 15 stitches in seed stitch (i.e. with 38 worked stitches on the right needle) k2tog, yfwd, k1, work the next 15 stitches in seed stitch (i.e. with 56 worked stitches on the right needle) k2tog, yfwd, k1, work the next 11 stitches in seed stitch (i.e. with 70 worked stitches on the right needle) k2tog, yfwd, k1, k2.<br /><br />Rows 7 to 11: work in seed stitch.<br /><br />Row 12: cast off 75 stitches in k1, p1 seed stitch on the button side of the front band. Carry on in seed stitch to the end of the row. There will now be 198 stitches on the needles.<br /><br />Row 13: cast off 75 stitches in k1, p1 seed stitch on the button-hole side of the front band. Carry on in seed stitch to the end of the row. There will now be 123 stitches on the needles.<br /><br />You have now finished the button and button-hole bands.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br /><br />Shape the shawl collar.<br /><br />Rows 14 to 19: work in k1, p1 seed stitch.<br /><br />Row 20 (wrong-side row): work across row until only 2 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn.<br />Row 21 (right-side row): work across row until only 2 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn.<br />Row 22 (wrong-side row): work across row until only 4 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn.<br />Row 23 (right-side row): work across row until only 4 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn.<br />Row 24 (wrong-side row): work across row until only 6 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn.<br /><div>
Row 25 (right-side row): work across row until only 6 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 26 (wrong-side row): work across row until only 8 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 27 (right-side row): work across row until only 8 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 28 (wrong-side row): work across row until only 10 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 29 (right-side row): work across row until only 10 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 30 (wrong-side row): work across row until only 12 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 31 (right-side row): work across row until only 12 stitches remain on the left hand needle, wrap the next stitch and turn. </div>
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Row 32, work across the entire row in seed stitch, picking up the wraps as you go.</div>
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Row 33, work across the entire row in seed stitch, picking up the wraps as you go.</div>
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Cast off in seed stitch, darn in the ends and you're done!</div>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-2011399799132070762016-08-28T07:34:00.000+01:002016-08-28T07:34:47.470+01:00Chasing the fish ...Yesterday morning I happened upon the last fishing boat as it re-entered the harbour. It was pretty spectacular. In its wake were more seagulls than you could have shaken a stick at. The fishermen clean out their catch on the way back to harbour and I'm guessing that they toss the bits they don't keep back into the sea. As a result this big boat is a serious gravy train for all those hungry sea birds.<br />
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The fishing boats are usually greeted by a group of villagers keen to buy the freshest fish in town. After they dock there's quite a bit of animated commerce that goes on at the back of the processing plant. Wily grandmas jostle with hawkers who sell fresh sardines door to door. And there's a group of old men who meet up every morning down on the quay to shoot the breeze. Some of them bring fishing rods on the pretext that they'll maybe catch their lunch while they're there.<br />
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For a while after they dock the fishermen carry on preparing the fish and crating them up for onward transport. They seem to carry on tipping what they don't keep back into the water. As a result the harbour and the bay is full of well-fed fish.<br />
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And being full of well-fed fish it's the perfect place for normal folk, who fish for fun, to come and chance their luck. In the cool of the morning and the early evening there is usually a line of people all around the quay, patiently waiting for a fish to take their bait.<br />
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And then, in our harbour ecosystem with its complex feeding chain, there are other characters who benefit from the common bounty, but keep a discreet distance from the waves and display a marked preference for wearing dry paws. People toss them the odd tasty morsel, they lie back and enjoy the sunshine, and spare little thought for passing canines such as the WonderDog, who represent little if any threat.<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; line-height: 30.8px;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Bonny x</span></span></h2>
Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-38992788887928998242016-08-25T07:44:00.000+01:002016-08-25T07:44:29.185+01:00Loving the sunset ...<div class="date-posts">
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<br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;">We face the wrong way to get stunning sunsets over the waves, but I'm often out at the tennis club in the (relative) cool of the evening around dusk. It's the best time of the day to knock a few balls around, after the heat of the afternoon has passed.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;">Now in truth I'm not a brilliant tennis player, and it takes very little to distract me from those clay courts. The club is set in rolling farmland. And at this time of the year, with the cereal crops harvested and the great round bales of straw waiting to be collected, it turns into the most glorious golden landscape. Just at the point at which the sun is dipping below the brows of the surrounding hills and the shadows are lengthening it's at its very best. So there you are, that's my excuse for ducking out of play.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;">All the best for now,</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 17.6px; line-height: 24.64px;" /><h2 style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Times New Roman", Times, FreeSerif, serif; font-size: 22px; margin: 0px; position: relative;">
<span style="color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; line-height: 30.8px;"><span style="font-size: large;">Bonny x</span></span></h2>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-22905978675665600952016-08-23T07:06:00.001+01:002016-08-23T07:06:15.508+01:00Fishing at sunset ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I like to be out and about when the sun sets. There's a precious moment just before it disappears behind the hills when everywhere is bathed in the most wonderful golden light. Many of the local folk hereabouts also like to be out with their fishing rods at this same, precise moment. Fish, fishing, catching fish, eating fish, cooking fish: it's all a bit of an obsession in this little <i>fishing</i> village of mine. And whilst I don't have the temperament of a hunter, I am always touched to see whole families working together to teach the next generation how to catch their dinner. I loved how intent this little boy and his father were on the serious business of hooking a fish. The boy had ants in his pants - just like my Emi - but he was doing his very best to sit reasonably still so that he didn't scare the fish away.<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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<span style="color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; line-height: 30.8px;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Bonny x</span></span></h2>
Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-75773823153020748002016-08-07T06:24:00.001+01:002016-08-07T06:24:38.189+01:00Costa Brava Sunflowers ...We've made it! We're finally here on the Costa Brava! And it's hot. Very hot!<br />
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Emi goes to sailing school down on the beach every morning. He's made stacks of new friends and totally L-O-V-E-S being on the water. He's only had a week of instruction so far, but has taken to having a critical opinion of the wind every time we venture out. His great grandfather was in the Spanish Merchant Navy, so Mr B has been encouraging him to believe that he comes from a long and illustrious line of seafaring folk. The big joke is that their home village down in Murcia, a place called Águilas, has a big sign just outside of town announcing that it was once home to a notorious band of Barbary pirates ... enough said, Mr B!<br />
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The other day on my travels I came across a field of glorious sunflowers. I simply had to stop. They were calling out and begging to be photographed. They had just started to open and they made my heart do a little happy dance. There's nothing, but nothing, but nothing that shouts <i>summer</i> quite so eloquently as a field full of these big dinner-plate flowers standing to attention in the morning sun.<br />
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Most of the cereal crops have been harvested over here, and the fields are full of big round bales of golden straw, but around the edges there are loads of beautiful blue cornflowers.<br />
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I've been trying to figure out how my mother-in-law's old sewing machine works. Everyone else is braising on the beach and I'm upstairs doubled over an old treadle machine. They think I'm nuts, but I'd be bored <i>sunbathing</i> on the beach all day. Anyway back to this machine of mine: it's a thing of beauty, but we've had a slightly fractious relationship. At the moment I can only get it to sew backwards. In reverse it sews beautifully: lovely rows of neat stitches with perfect tension. Try to go forwards, however, and all the toys came out of the pram. The upper thread snaps. We have knots and loops going all the way down into the bobbin drawer. It's a disaster. If all else fails I may have to nip out and buy a new electric model, but that would feel like such a fail!<br />
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We've just had the <i>Fiesta Major</i>, our big summer festival. There's been music, lots of music, dancing and finally on Thursday night we had the best fireworks display ever. Our village is set in a horse-shoe bay with a long breakwater stretching more than half ways across to shelter the boats. They launch the fireworks from the very end of the harbour wall. The result is phenomenal. People come from miles around, and the streets fill up so that it becomes impossible to move. Personally I'm not mad about being in such a press of people, but luckily we get the best views from our upper terrace where there's plenty of elbow room. The WonderDog would much prefer it if the whole thing got cancelled, but we cuddle him and reassure him, and he manages to get through the evening without having a nervous doggie breakdown.<br />
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And yesterday we found a first class beach that welcomes well-behaved dogs. Yeah! I often stay at home rather than go swimming and leave the WonderDog on his own. He really, really doesn't like being left behind, and has a habit of howling like a coyote, which doesn't go down well with the neighbours. But all of that's behind us now that we've got this magical place under our belt where the whole family can take a cool dip on a hot day.<br />
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So we're sorted. All set for a sizzling August.<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-9141067972131334662016-05-04T15:58:00.000+01:002016-05-04T15:58:19.303+01:00Costa Brava cliff top walk ... and the hermit crab derby ...This afternoon Emi and I headed off with the Wonder Dog for a last walk along our favourite cliff top path. I've written about it before, but it's such a joy I could wander happily along it every day of my life and never get bored. The sea changes every day, and the cliff tops are home to a rich array of plants and animals. Every time we venture up there we find something new.<br />
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This is where we started, up above the port just behind our home.<br />
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There was a light breeze catching the sails of the yachts that were scooting around on the water.<br />
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We walked gingerly around the cacti, admiring their magnificent flowers.<br />
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Then we met this handsome chap. The Wonder Dog realised at once that he was out-classed by that magnificent beak and passed on by as meekly as a lamb, without uttering a single woof. And even though we were quite close the seagull held his corner; he wasn't even slightly afraid of us.<br />
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Then we saw these chaps all moored up and having a whale of a time exploring the rocks. Emi was impressed; he made big plans that involve him and the Wonder Dog setting out to sea in a two-man canoe. </div>
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On we went, down into a slight depression where the wild-life was a little more sheltered from the breeze, and then we came upon a host of these lovely fellows ...<br />
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... who were enjoying all the floral loveliness. As you walk along you brush against wild rosemary and lavender. Their fragrance mixes with the wonderful smell of the pine trees, baking in the sun. It's a treat for all the senses.<br />
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We had to be careful not to trip over the roots of the great Costa Brava pine trees which hold the cliffs together. They've got a habit of snaking around and catching you unawares when you're concentrating on something else.</div>
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We carried on past the strange dead tree that we think looks a bit like a Native American totem pole.</div>
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And then we dropped down to our very favourite cove. It's our secret place, where no one else goes. It's got crystal clear water, great big boulders and some of the best rock pools in the area. Let's just say its a little bit perfect.</div>
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And this is where our friends, the hermit crabs, hang out. There are hundreds and hundreds of them chilling out in the shallows.</div>
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We have hermit crab races. It's a tricky business spotting form in hermit crabs. Sometimes the <i>titchiest</i> little critters have the fiercest ambitions, and chose the biggest, grandest shells. </div>
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I always assume that the big-shell guys will motor on fastest, but my theory often bombs when an aspiring, upwardly mobile type seizes a huge shell that he really struggles to move.</div>
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Emi loves rock pooling. It's his favourite thing. And he's brilliant at spotting the little chaps who live in the water. I'm blind, and, until someone actually puts them in my bucket for me, I'm a bit hopeless at spotting them.<br />
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There's always a little bit of a debate about whether or not he can adopt one or two of the crabs as his pets, but deep down he knows and respects the rule that everything must go safely back into the sea. We said <i>good bye</i> to our little chums and gently plopped them back in the water, promising to come and visit them again soon.<br />
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Distracted by the yacht that had just sailed into view, and the thought of the ice cream waiting for us back at home, we made our way back up to the cliff top.<br />
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Again we marvelled at those amazing roots that are doing a great job of holding this whole cliff together.<br />
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And then we noticed the brave folk who were scaling the sea cliff.<br />
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And young Emi added another chapter to that big plan of his involving the Wonder Dog and a two-man sea canoe.<br />
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Thankfully I was able to distract him with a double ration of ice cream when we got home - before he added any more death-defying feats to his plan.<br />
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All the best for now,<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.8000011444092px;">Bonny x</span>Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-13528689560151113002016-05-04T15:57:00.001+01:002016-05-04T15:57:38.846+01:00Hearts & Kisses Fairisle cushion ...I'm showing all the symptoms of having developed an obsessive compulsive disorder with knitting Fairisle. I've always been a lover of bright, vibrant colours and this technique really plays to that passion. It embraces colour: the bolder the better.<br />
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Now I like to have something to celebrate. I've moaned a lot about what a miserable month January is on the basis - amongst others - that it doesn't have the decency to throw up one good excuse for a party. So, by the time I get to February, I'm really looking forward to all the fun and nonsense that is St. Valentine's Day.<br />
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If you'd like to <i>spruce up your boudoir</i> ahead of the big day you may like to make one of these:<br />
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Go on: embrace your inner girl and go pink!<br />
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I've got grand plans for a cluster of these little cushions in contrasting candy colours, which should look good scattered on the white bed linen of a guest bedroom. I had a couple of cushion pads that were looking rather tired in their current garb so I decided to use one of those. It measured 44 cm x 33 cm or 17"x 13" if you prefer Imperial, and I designed my cover to fit. I think it's a standard-size rectangular cushion over here in the UK.<br />
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I chose Peter Pan merino baby which is a lovely soft squidgy wool that comes in a pleasing selection of candy colours. I chose this dusty pink (colour code 3036) as my main colour with a cream contrast (colour code 3031). This wool knits on 4 mm/ US size 6 needles.<br />
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The pattern is worked in stocking stitch, which is alternating rows of knit and purl going back and forth for each row.<br />
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Cast on 99 stitches in your main colour (pink in my case) and work two rows in stocking stitch. If you would like to make a larger or smaller cushion you can increase or decrease by adding or subtracting stitches in multiples of 11. I've designed my pattern to work over 11 stitches and 20 rows. You may also like to use circular needles, but work them straight. I always prefer to work with circulars when I can as they're much more portable and place less stress on your wrists if you're working with a heavy fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BoS1gYtPxc6tJduw89-L2KyfQxzhJTJhtpHG9gO3uIJw2pFsCdJMHJQcnSOarAU0LY2b5OCE6Hyzr4J44DDCoZ_2-3VxS2t2UW0_MniSU5dE1vwHQXcBCJgDr4SMBMeTVcZqrBbUorg/s1600/hearts+&+kisses+cushion+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8BoS1gYtPxc6tJduw89-L2KyfQxzhJTJhtpHG9gO3uIJw2pFsCdJMHJQcnSOarAU0LY2b5OCE6Hyzr4J44DDCoZ_2-3VxS2t2UW0_MniSU5dE1vwHQXcBCJgDr4SMBMeTVcZqrBbUorg/s1600/hearts+&+kisses+cushion+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you need to follow my graph for the patterned rows that follow, repeating each group of 11 stitches across your row until you reach the end. You will have 9 hearts in total working across. Each square is one stitch, and you change colour as shown by the colour of the squares. Please remember when you work a purl row that you have to follow the graph from right to left.<br />
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Keep going until your work is almost 33 cm long. I worked 4 sets of hearts and kisses to get to the bottom of my cushion, and then I finished off with 2 rows of stocking stitch i.e. 1 row of knit and 1 of purl. Then cast off.<br />
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When you're done it's really important to block the knitting to straighten it out and get it to the exact dimensions of your cushion.<br />
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I pinned mine to the dining room carpet with blocking pins (long pins with bar ends - you can buy them on Amazon). Using a tape measure check and double check that you've got it the right length and width. You really don't want to pull it out of shape at this stage.<br />
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Then take a steam iron, and holding it really, really close to the surface of the cushion but without actually touching it, press the steam button and infuse the yarn with steam. I like to use fragrant ironing water for this as it adds to the sensory experience. </div>
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Now just leave your cushion in place until it's dried out - overnight ought to do the trick. When you unpick your creation it will have magically conformed to the shape in which it was pinned giving you something that's much easier to work with. </div>
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You could knit a back to match in the same pattern or in plain stocking stitch, but I chose to back my knitted front panel with some jersey crepe that I found in the same candy pink. I'd originally headed out to my local fabric store thinking hopeful thoughts of a lovely, plush short-pile velvet in that wonderful tone, but there was none to hand so I compromised on the jersey crepe rather than spend a week searching all the shops for the exact thing that I had in mind. Life's just too short. In any event I like the contrast in texture when you back a knitted panel with another fabric. </div>
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I cut the crepe to the size of the cushion allowing a 2.5 cm seam allowance all the way round (i.e. I cut a rectangle of 49 cm x 38 cm along one selvage of the cloth to keep me straight and to make sure that the stretchiest part of the cloth ran the depth of the cushion), and then sewed it into a rectangle, killing the raw edges with a double seam all the way round. Keep checking with your measuring tape each time you pin and tack a seam to make sure that you've not pulled it out of shape, and that it measures the correct finishing size (44 cm x 33 cm in my case).</div>
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When you've sewn the backing to the correct size you need to stitch it to the knitted panel (wrong side to wrong side) with an over-locking stitch that allows a little bit of movement as between the two. Jersey was a good choice of backing as it's quite stretchy, but if you're working with something stiffer you will want to use lots of small overlocking stitches that allow for a little movement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RUOLOzWWAb7u_p7LUeWh75xtVg7MhtXnjDUnBsU_L9_OXmRY9C6eOUM73kWCzfBt82piO2T3zNpCMsjKGCBe-EnFFrbs0y1BXPe9D_ZJgIs-rC51nm9CIflLNluPTcsCRPH_dvwybLs/s1600/hearts+&+kisses+cushion+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RUOLOzWWAb7u_p7LUeWh75xtVg7MhtXnjDUnBsU_L9_OXmRY9C6eOUM73kWCzfBt82piO2T3zNpCMsjKGCBe-EnFFrbs0y1BXPe9D_ZJgIs-rC51nm9CIflLNluPTcsCRPH_dvwybLs/s1600/hearts+&+kisses+cushion+5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When you've got 3 sides done, slide your cushion inside the <i>envelope </i>and sew up the remaining side. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUK3_5xJo0mrxAWzdbWQrGQ5CmgynthTcbY5TG5jLV_KETV8CMfcAzHHcp8lvQzjGCl54xdrQ30dMWcu4nvu3gryVfxyxodpbzzuNcu8sL0noRPzvJFj8NmBZ7ZmCl1BFjZ5fj-C89hnc/s1600/hearts+&+kisses+cushion+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUK3_5xJo0mrxAWzdbWQrGQ5CmgynthTcbY5TG5jLV_KETV8CMfcAzHHcp8lvQzjGCl54xdrQ30dMWcu4nvu3gryVfxyxodpbzzuNcu8sL0noRPzvJFj8NmBZ7ZmCl1BFjZ5fj-C89hnc/s1600/hearts+&+kisses+cushion+6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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By the time I'd got it all sewn together it was starting to look quite good. I reckoned that I could have left it like that and it would have been fine.</div>
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Here it is before I cut the thread from sewing it up - you can still see it dangling from the top right hand corner:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBAZEV-esurvQYPC61hF8SKDERBH7XcqLlMILtV7QojR2vubDYBNLKHxefKdbP4vr4JPh1_khMknt-Qby_LjR0qHM6wnndmWpbgxDRys8AbYzCBery94yELHnGxdRdXIMoMpAUcyHGhQQ/s1600/IMG_2387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBAZEV-esurvQYPC61hF8SKDERBH7XcqLlMILtV7QojR2vubDYBNLKHxefKdbP4vr4JPh1_khMknt-Qby_LjR0qHM6wnndmWpbgxDRys8AbYzCBery94yELHnGxdRdXIMoMpAUcyHGhQQ/s1600/IMG_2387.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Moreover if you leave it like this without any further embellishment you really get to appreciate the contrast in textures between the front and the back.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRImMAhh08XmYODBBNoNQrolPiKuNbQdzxIapW0m7JAzOiG2pEH06mZCLQr7Rsyjby2WF07z8YP0S897iOBGFAcMoN_5xYzOjIxqqPY1-aeQEv7ichP2Tv8xJxQcZ4PNuzbWJhbNPax6w/s1600/IMG_2386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRImMAhh08XmYODBBNoNQrolPiKuNbQdzxIapW0m7JAzOiG2pEH06mZCLQr7Rsyjby2WF07z8YP0S897iOBGFAcMoN_5xYzOjIxqqPY1-aeQEv7ichP2Tv8xJxQcZ4PNuzbWJhbNPax6w/s1600/IMG_2386.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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But I decided that I'd knock up a quick i-cord trim to go all the way around the edges of the cushion.<br />
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If you'd like to do one it's the easiest thing in the world to make.<br />
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Cast on 3 stitches, and knit one row. When you've got to the end of the row, don't turn your work around. Push the stitches back to the top of the needle they're on and start knitting the next row using the live end of the yarn, which will be at the wrong end of the row. You simply pull it across each row and it closes the fabric to create a tube. And you keep knitting and sliding the stitches and then knitting the next row without ever turning your work until you've got the length of trim that you need.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I've knit this row, pushed the stiches back up the active end of the needle and pulled the live end of the yarn across the back of the row to knit the next row WITHOUT turning the work around.<br />
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When you've got it the right length just sew it around the edge of the cushion, sewing the two ends of the trim neatly in place. Start and finish sewing the trim at one of the bottom corners of the cushion, so that the join is not going to be noticeable when the cushion is sitting upright. I also didn't cast off until I'd almost attached all of the trim so that I could rip it back a bit to get the perfect length. It's a bit fiddly as the i-cord is very stretchy which makes calculating how much you're going to need a bit tricky. As a result it's best not to cast off until you've got most of it sewn in place and can see exactly what you need to finish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ3lfxL0KisvOFi6FV_zilRZXA5gnOhuIvm_F0SZoxI8IQiYZz3oaQxcF5_EKGhq27xi95CzfZXPgQ1SCbi4mWKlSADcMsnwmGte2jutvuQaEgFdYkyE1Wd3lS8zjV6zm17XKzlUxlUk4/s1600/IMG_2396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ3lfxL0KisvOFi6FV_zilRZXA5gnOhuIvm_F0SZoxI8IQiYZz3oaQxcF5_EKGhq27xi95CzfZXPgQ1SCbi4mWKlSADcMsnwmGte2jutvuQaEgFdYkyE1Wd3lS8zjV6zm17XKzlUxlUk4/s1600/IMG_2396.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And bingo! Hearts and kisses: you're all set for Valentines Day!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFXwHmm6u9CAYW9Qd9iQQwtvvl0rIdXcZTb4MSySttz5vEO9bc-zCh_DtkjKUP1ocCj7tYZryVsb0Vk-D8bOlsy70VNbbaRfNUdXu7RXuXHVtDaC2crLyfA4-EWqZBltKZs_xImB6EJMc/s1600/IMG_2410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFXwHmm6u9CAYW9Qd9iQQwtvvl0rIdXcZTb4MSySttz5vEO9bc-zCh_DtkjKUP1ocCj7tYZryVsb0Vk-D8bOlsy70VNbbaRfNUdXu7RXuXHVtDaC2crLyfA4-EWqZBltKZs_xImB6EJMc/s1600/IMG_2410.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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All the best for now,</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span></div>
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As shared on <a href="http://kimklassen.com/tt-pretty-pink-tulips/">Texture Tuesday</a> and <a href="http://image-in-ing.blogspot.co.uk/">image-in-ing</a></div>
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<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-44404573110238805282016-05-04T15:57:00.000+01:002016-05-04T15:57:11.481+01:00The stone witch of Girona ...Yesterday morning Emi and I set off on a mission ... to find the famous <i>petrified</i> witch of Girona who'd been really, really bad back in the day when the powers that be took a really, really dim view of that kind of behaviour.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVw5t1tQNRsc9jwf19OgUmaAqB4S1ihml54tAwDw7Oqd46a8sdrRORYlUsMo0FNxYbcvLcnnAn9GaYIDzGE74jHmxKFdjgGdAKm1mzLTNDGL-i426qgQeqVnum4N-cLprwFKfQcBc2XJ4/s1600/petrified+witch+of+Girona+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVw5t1tQNRsc9jwf19OgUmaAqB4S1ihml54tAwDw7Oqd46a8sdrRORYlUsMo0FNxYbcvLcnnAn9GaYIDzGE74jHmxKFdjgGdAKm1mzLTNDGL-i426qgQeqVnum4N-cLprwFKfQcBc2XJ4/s640/petrified+witch+of+Girona+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girona's stone witch, high on the cathedral tower</td></tr>
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="more"></a><br />
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Once upon a time in the fair city of Girona there lived a wicked witch, or so the story goes. She called down curses on everyone who crossed her. Oftentimes the slights were imagined, and other times the witch took what was said out of context, perceiving slights where none had been intended.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_AnPjeAZM9FD5CwyH74tLrPIawRihJdljjHrrvGrLXAF2SVL5Ii5xGGYt_Wfr5Df-im2PxCZ6lYdEQblrtc1nb3K8v3HSDfVn0iyKUYYo5EI7X1EMpvED_i4UsL63i0vMvm6mfTn6sQ/s1600/Petrified+witch+of+Girona+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl_AnPjeAZM9FD5CwyH74tLrPIawRihJdljjHrrvGrLXAF2SVL5Ii5xGGYt_Wfr5Df-im2PxCZ6lYdEQblrtc1nb3K8v3HSDfVn0iyKUYYo5EI7X1EMpvED_i4UsL63i0vMvm6mfTn6sQ/s640/Petrified+witch+of+Girona+5.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Girona from the River Onyar</td></tr>
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But everyone in the city walked in terror of the witch. Everyone knew someone who had suffered from her evil maledictions. Their hens had stopped laying, their cow's milk had dried up, couples who yearned for a baby remained childless, crops withered and died in the fields. It seemed as though there was no end to her diabolical powers.<br />
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Of course she grew arrogant as a result of the fear that she inspired. Everyone deferred to her, everyone always stood back allowing her to pass first through a doorway, no one ever contradicted her and she was given the best of everything by the city's merchants. The witch developed a defiant swagger and her wickedness grew by the day.<br />
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Even back then in the witch's day Girona had a fine cathedral that was the pride of all its citizens, but, because of her craft, it was a place that she found odious. In the dark of night, whilst everyone else kept to their beds, the witch stalked the streets of the cathedral quarter. She invoked powerful spells, aimed at bringing down thunder bolts onto the roof of the wonderful building.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXprNW_M7JeD1_VNvAMqPw-S5ep16D_MWKJN31VUBv5AmhuPX0ZxRhZiEJokVmEXeupi0qkSzK7HOcj1EvErHySvP2VrHJghKWHSIXtcrIgLQEA-G5tsONbG1I_u6_KMy16AzQCEKhYYs/s1600/Petrified+witch+of+Girona+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXprNW_M7JeD1_VNvAMqPw-S5ep16D_MWKJN31VUBv5AmhuPX0ZxRhZiEJokVmEXeupi0qkSzK7HOcj1EvErHySvP2VrHJghKWHSIXtcrIgLQEA-G5tsONbG1I_u6_KMy16AzQCEKhYYs/s320/Petrified+witch+of+Girona+6.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral of Santa Maria de Girona</td></tr>
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But an angel kept watch from the highest tower. Half way up to heaven he was able to see the witch coming, and he had more than enough power to defeat all her magic. The witch was shrewd; she realised why she hadn't been able to achiever her purpose. Breaking her walking stick on the cobbles in her fury she cursed the angel, but all to no avail, because, as everyone knows, angels are impervious to a witch's spells. But the angel watched her carefully. He was upset to see so much hatred and malevolence in her heart. In the dark of the night, with only a sliver of a moon for company, he prayed that she might learn to be a better person.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNjZ4I-x8F5Y6Oi_84cXgYlpb4BXOtIMPzaFgFupYdWHY3eFL_TxJLew5oZNXt5l4jLbSDeAXrfBidNsCuEKGI9gt-VK1LGSJfhPjClEKPPjol9C33t2hgZSGgMkneVbonIY9E5UW8as/s1600/petrified+witch+of+Girona+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNjZ4I-x8F5Y6Oi_84cXgYlpb4BXOtIMPzaFgFupYdWHY3eFL_TxJLew5oZNXt5l4jLbSDeAXrfBidNsCuEKGI9gt-VK1LGSJfhPjClEKPPjol9C33t2hgZSGgMkneVbonIY9E5UW8as/s320/petrified+witch+of+Girona+11.jpg" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angel on top of Santa Maria</td></tr>
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But sadly the witch was not minded to embark upon a campaign of self-improvement. The following day she learnt that one of her neighbour's sons had found his vocation as a priest. His proud mother, Sra.Verdaguer, had been boasting down in the market place about how her boy was set to <i>take the cloth.</i> The witch listened from the shadows with a heart full of loathing. She'd never liked this woman; she'd always seemed too happy, too full of light and virtue, which the witch chose to interpret as smugness and self-satisfaction. Without making her presence known the witch slunk off to her lair.<br />
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That night when darkness enveloped the streets and everyone else retired to their homes, the witch wrapped herself in a magic cape and set out, invisible to mortal eyes, but not invisible to the eyes of the angel. Creeping noiselessly over the cobblestones she arrived outside the would-be priest's house. A wonderful smell of meat cooking over a wood fire filled the air. The sound of happy laughter echoed from the windows of the Verdaguer home. Peeping through a crack in the wooden shutter, where it had been fractured by the hot Catalan sun, the witch was outraged to see the family sitting around the table at supper, toasting their son and congratulating him on having found his vocation. Happiness and the good fortune of others always <i>outraged</i> her.<br />
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The witch withdrew into the shadows for a moment to brood on the scene that was playing out behind the shutter, and from half way up to heaven, on the tallest tower of the cathedral, the angel watched her, praying that she would chose to be good. But his prayers were to go unanswered. With a cackle of mirthless laughter the witch invoked a spell on the young man, and crept up close to the window again to see her handiwork begin to unfold.<br />
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Through the ragged crack she saw him shiver, <i>as though someone had walked on his grave</i>. His parents seemed to sense that something was amiss too.<br />
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<i>What's the matter, Bernat? What ails thee?</i> they asked, speaking in unison.<br />
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<i>Tis nothing</i>, the young man replied with a stern, unsmiling face.<br />
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The parents looked at one another, confused. They knew something had changed, but they didn't know what.<br />
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Without another word, or any display of filial affection, the young man rose stiffly to his feet and left the room to seek out his own chamber for the night. Satisfied, the witch turned around and went back down the street to her hovel.<br />
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Next morning the townsfolk awoke to a terrible commotion. The noise echoed around the narrow streets of the cathedral quarter. As the sound bounced from stone to stone it was amplified by the natural acoustics of the city. By the time it reached the Verdaguer home, it sounded as though the devil himself and a legion of fallen angels were attacking Girona.<br />
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Sra. Verdaguer woke up with a start. Immediately she sensed that something evil was afoot. Out of nowhere in the clear, blue sky, a cloud crossed the early morning sun, throwing a dark shadow over her door. She jumped out of bed and, pulling on sufficient raiment to cover her modesty, set off in the direction of the unhallowed racket.<br />
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As she approached the cathedral she beheld her son, standing on an elevation behind the sacred building, with a sling shot and a supply of rocks, which he was aiming at the precious glass of the windows, and then at the growing group of citizens, who were trying to make their way up the hill to disarm him.<br />
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People called to him, <i>Bernat, have you lost your mind? What are you doing?</i><br />
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But Bernat Verdaguer only replied with curses and obscenities, and a renewed vigour in his attack. And when he looked briefly into the eyes of his heart-broken mother he seemed oblivious to the pain that his wrong-doing was inflicting upon the person who loved him most in all the world.<br />
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The townspeople realised that they couldn't allow the situation to continue: the would-have-been priest was going to damage the precious glass of the cathedral that had cost them a king's ransom to install or, worse still, he was going to kill one of their number. The mayor, who knew that he had to take the lead, quietly went home and returned with his musket and a pouch full of gunpowder.<br />
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From his tower, half way up to heaven, the angel looked down on the scene and had an inkling of what the witch had been about the previous night. In a flash he knew that he couldn't allow an innocent man to perish as a result of her evil-doing. At the very last moment he caused the musket to misfire. The noise of the gun's discharge and the pall of smoke penetrated the deranged mind of Bernat Verdaguer causing him to realise that he was in mortal danger. Taking to his heels he scaled the walls and made his escape into the hills behind the city.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZH53JzBH38xyxMJuOGbOxE3pqDYfos-zxgsDpbjUmSJ9RAyHGOX0Vsw01DmjSc39DK6qBoWtfiGnxZLJr40o4qCUpDvUeZ7kheNb5dcxigBzwn9fTIt3jdC-Kx_2VaKR747fCjEeOAWE/s1600/petrified+witch+of+Girona+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZH53JzBH38xyxMJuOGbOxE3pqDYfos-zxgsDpbjUmSJ9RAyHGOX0Vsw01DmjSc39DK6qBoWtfiGnxZLJr40o4qCUpDvUeZ7kheNb5dcxigBzwn9fTIt3jdC-Kx_2VaKR747fCjEeOAWE/s640/petrified+witch+of+Girona+14.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gardens that cling to the old city walls</td></tr>
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From the hidden coolness of a dark alleyway the witch looked on, satisfied with how her night's work had unfolded. She rejoiced in the broken aspect of Sra. Verdaguer, who had collapsed to her knees and cried pitiful tears, ignored by everyone around her. Those who had congratulated her down in the market only the day before avoided her, not knowing what words they could offer to comfort her, and at the same time not wanting to court the disapproval of their peers through being associated with her.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTM1SRAu1FTQgI0CNWvKGPQmVnoceIFI3zzIlYv_0_T01v4C2lBwzcsa3pZeQCnuC1ACrm-GeRnk1LLx8fbehz181Lnsm4ukgVPASCoaLBNMuNOwSthuVs_6HRESt1Ozg2t23DSNXR6xk/s1600/petrified+witch+of+girona+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTM1SRAu1FTQgI0CNWvKGPQmVnoceIFI3zzIlYv_0_T01v4C2lBwzcsa3pZeQCnuC1ACrm-GeRnk1LLx8fbehz181Lnsm4ukgVPASCoaLBNMuNOwSthuVs_6HRESt1Ozg2t23DSNXR6xk/s320/petrified+witch+of+girona+8.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Jewish Quarter</td></tr>
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The broken mother made her way home along the back streets avoiding the crowds and wearing her disgrace like a penitent's black gown at Pentecost. But the work of the witch was not yet done. Not satisfied with the spectacular fall from grace that she had wrought on the young man's life she still yearned to crush his mother's soul completely.<br />
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As it happened, later that day, the annual Corpus Christi procession was due to make its way through the streets of Girona, carrying the Sacred Host, so that it might be venerated by the people of the city. The angel knew this, and wondered whether the witch might try her hand again. He normally kept a watchful vigil over the people of his city, but that day he watched with extra special care. He had a feeling that there was more to come.<br />
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The morning passed, the sun strengthened and the people gathered for the procession. No one had seen anything of Bernat Verdaguer since morning, but no one talked of anything else. <i>How could he possibly hope to enter the priesthood after what had taken place? What would become of him?</i> Shock and surprise turned to outrage. No one could understand his actions, and gradually their hearts hardened against him. In the course of one short day he had gone from being the most respected son of their neighbourhood to being a social outcast.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisNp5JJP7uhe4jJMjlCqFdBoYHt_qD8RF9oU7AuMaJPXTs8KKPk8pFTZPJiVaeDqbQ-9hEbpnWwXkJRi7cqN8IR5eRuxsKypugfLPVMRz8EL-p7f0h9ErRPVRif2OxZF8-cp95jl0xFF4/s1600/petrified+witch+of+girona+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisNp5JJP7uhe4jJMjlCqFdBoYHt_qD8RF9oU7AuMaJPXTs8KKPk8pFTZPJiVaeDqbQ-9hEbpnWwXkJRi7cqN8IR5eRuxsKypugfLPVMRz8EL-p7f0h9ErRPVRif2OxZF8-cp95jl0xFF4/s640/petrified+witch+of+girona+9.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front façade of the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Girona</td></tr>
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The bishop and the priests came slowly down the great steps of the cathedral with the Host. The crowd lowered their heads respectfully and silence fell over the city. The heat was by now intense, and the bearers carrying the heavy monstrance with the Eucharist inside sweated under the weight of their burden.<br />
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When they were half way down the steps Bernat Verdaguer appeared at the door of the cathedral. The people at the back, who hadn't all bowed their heads, gasped to see him, and everyone else looked up expecting some new outrage. On his back Bernat carried a bag, full of stones, and his bloodshot eyes raged with the madness that possessed him.<br />
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No one, other than the angel, saw the witch, standing quietly under the eaves of the bishop's palace. But that didn't matter, because the angel had read her thoughts and knew that she was about to make the young man attack the Eucharist with his stones.<br />
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In a flash the angel intervened. The great bells of the cathedral rang out, although no one was pulling their ropes. There was a crack of lightening that flashed across the brilliant blue sky. The people quaked and looked on in terror. They saw nothing. Bernat Verdaguer had disappeared.<br />
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A few of the braver souls, including a small boy, ventured slowly and carefully up the steps to investigate what had taken place. The small boy looked up at the roof of the cathedral to see whether the angel was still there. He loved the angel who lived on the tallest tower, half way up to heaven. In his heart he knew the angel kept him safe when he lay, scared of the darkness, in his bed at night. He squinted. He rubbed his eyes. It couldn't be ... no, surely ... but it was. There on the side of the cathedral was the witch, turned to stone, and staring harmlessly back down at them. If the truth be told she looked more placid and benign than any of them could ever remember her having looked in life.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN50A9-tFl6dpD5RqxXvc-mcJf8E2nTbgxc6ACtKN5vR60zJ0Q8hb413wmqSXvIJml_-KtbaZ5IOdDzdkII1yNVXKPsKq4ntiosKIGn3KIgxs0Ou_FDXLN9BBi6PWqiCcTKPXt9yTwJhs/s1600/petrified+witch+of+girona+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN50A9-tFl6dpD5RqxXvc-mcJf8E2nTbgxc6ACtKN5vR60zJ0Q8hb413wmqSXvIJml_-KtbaZ5IOdDzdkII1yNVXKPsKq4ntiosKIGn3KIgxs0Ou_FDXLN9BBi6PWqiCcTKPXt9yTwJhs/s320/petrified+witch+of+girona+10.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The witch of Girona</td></tr>
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And you can still see her there to this day, on the side of the cathedral, just beside Charlemagne's Tower. You can't miss her because she's the highest of all the gargoyles, and the only one in human form. For over 800 years she has stared down at the ground beneath her, not able to look up to the heavens and admire the vivid blue of the Catalan sky in summer. And every time it rains, the fresh rain water washes through her mouth, purifying it from all the evil curses and blasphemies that she uttered in the course of her lifetime.<br />
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<i>What about the would-have-been priest?</i> you ask. <i>What happened to him?</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBusvVO87UD2fGUhgHC939e4PyapYSxt6_2lANUpR5DTupe1kqhqHG-sViQd1p93SvmllItfMq6O9psKNo1tmUJVqbgSMSO-Ne3BM5pVdQa6pSiA5z3LBIppp0DeR5Y4XUkAFw6MTNVI/s1600/petrified+witch+of+girona+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJBusvVO87UD2fGUhgHC939e4PyapYSxt6_2lANUpR5DTupe1kqhqHG-sViQd1p93SvmllItfMq6O9psKNo1tmUJVqbgSMSO-Ne3BM5pVdQa6pSiA5z3LBIppp0DeR5Y4XUkAFw6MTNVI/s640/petrified+witch+of+girona+12.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A happy amphibian in the pool of Sant Pere de Galligants</td></tr>
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<br />
Well, the angel realised that the hearts of the people had been poisoned against him, and that he would never be allowed to pursue his vocation. So, in order to save him from the misery of a life of rejection and disappointment, the angel changed him into a frog. With the altered expectations and career goals that came with being a frog he hopped off to live a happy and uncomplicated life in the nearby pool at St. Pere de Galligants. And if you pass by that way you can still see his descendants living happily and croaking loudly in the shallows.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzp7Im7ksbAj_40nv4nNNlUR8qCda-bybPDIEW0LIqu_96OwQJpbJKexjFT-U_m4KgQ8_DRsSa_QVrIQSIS8-lLs3gJB9zj5Ste5nwQD_-ONOBA8R4Pp49pXOFlQCPcnK4zGi4PqK0kw/s1600/petrified+witch+of+girona+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzp7Im7ksbAj_40nv4nNNlUR8qCda-bybPDIEW0LIqu_96OwQJpbJKexjFT-U_m4KgQ8_DRsSa_QVrIQSIS8-lLs3gJB9zj5Ste5nwQD_-ONOBA8R4Pp49pXOFlQCPcnK4zGi4PqK0kw/s640/petrified+witch+of+girona+13.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sant Pere de Galligants, Girona</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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All the best for now,<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.8000011444092px;">Bonny x</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span id="goog_588979881"></span><span id="goog_588979882"></span>[Loosely based on an old legend from Girona - more or less]<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitu4m9uUN1H8qQQ607EUWk7K0wh8Ox1eUuRnp5TNapIQY-nHotd-SXw_4yzg71tIRykqkIh0WN7ebfeaX40uR4hurXdqQEPWR-bgjM3QfauO0yvliu5PkwX7RIRvNZ_F2SeE_nSmxA9vU/s1600/inSPIREd_Sunday_new+copy.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitu4m9uUN1H8qQQ607EUWk7K0wh8Ox1eUuRnp5TNapIQY-nHotd-SXw_4yzg71tIRykqkIh0WN7ebfeaX40uR4hurXdqQEPWR-bgjM3QfauO0yvliu5PkwX7RIRvNZ_F2SeE_nSmxA9vU/s1600/inSPIREd_Sunday_new+copy.png" /></a></div>
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<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-18545540207565882272016-05-04T15:56:00.004+01:002016-05-04T15:56:56.322+01:00Spotty dotty knitted bag ...<div class="MsoNormal">
Does the weather influence how you look at colour?<br />
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I find that when I’m in Spain I always chose bright, cheerful colours. Back home in London my choices tend to be a bit more restrained, but over on the Costa Brava I’m drawn to the big sunshine colours. And you can see the influence of that big Mediterranean sun in this new dotty, spotty bag that I’ve just cast-off.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFY9Ynwz4AXBPNnUJaBsxXyex6d-FkDjOIvUzkW55L-TUs3KjdgV0ARymwK2kINrlIKY96CQ444iWRsNuJrcgBcuh7B81YAryH6hADWDOESvv9z_I4xWOLEQpjZmAK-IT_HrBwQmL5bRg/s1600/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="542" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFY9Ynwz4AXBPNnUJaBsxXyex6d-FkDjOIvUzkW55L-TUs3KjdgV0ARymwK2kINrlIKY96CQ444iWRsNuJrcgBcuh7B81YAryH6hADWDOESvv9z_I4xWOLEQpjZmAK-IT_HrBwQmL5bRg/s640/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've lined it with a contrasting lawn cotton so that all the woven-in ends aren't visible when I open it. It's really quick and easy to make: perfect for a weekend with your needles out in the sunshine. Just read on for the pattern.</div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">It is worked using King Cole Bamboo cotton in double knitting and single point 4mm/ UK size 8 needles/ US size 5 needles. My tension working on these needles came out pretty close to the recommended 28 rows and 22 stitches for a 10cm square. The colours that I chose were Fuchsia/ shade 536, Lawn/ shade 653 and Safron/ shade 637. To make a bag that's 35 cm deep and 32 cm wide you'll need about 100 g (252 yards) of the main colour (pink) and of the contrast dot colour (yellow) and 50 g or 100 yards of the third colour (green in this case). I’d ordered them online and, whilst they weren’t exactly how I’d expected them to look when they arrived, I was lucky in that still they worked quite together well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> I struggle a bit with the colour charts on the internet: they don't always seem to be accurate when the wool arrives. Do you have that problem too?</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Anyway if you'd like to get to work you'll need to cast on 73 stitches using the long tail cast-on method. </div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The pattern is worked in knit and purl (stocking stitch) from the chart, without any increases or decreases, changing colour as shown. Remember that when working the knit rows you will have the right side facing you and you will be following the colour chart from right to left, and with the purl rows you will have the wrong side facing you and you will work the chart from left to right. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">You could work this pattern in either Intarsia or Fairisle. I’ve got a strong preference for Fairisle over Intarsia. All those little bobbins for the different colour-blocks tend to emerge from my handbag looking like the Wonder Dog has been chewing them, and then it takes me an age to get them all straightened out and smartened up before I can get down to any knitting. So, given my personal preference, I did this in Fairisle, taking care to carry the dormant colour across the back of the stitches so that I didn’t end up with lots of long hanging loops. As a rule I weave the dormant wool into the back of the active stitches on every third stitch so that it doesn’t make a nuisance of itself. This produces a nicely tensioned, well-behaved textile that’s easy to work with. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The pattern repeats over a total of 34 rows. </span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Work 2 pattern repeats (i.e. 68 rows). Then follow the pattern again for the first 19 rows of the chart (this will take you to the row before the lower edges of the second row of dots) i.e. you will now have completed 87 rows in total. Carry on in stocking stitch in the pink yarn for another 9 rows. Change to the green wool and work 2 rows in green. Change to pink and work 2 rows in pink. Change to green again and work 2 rows in green. Change to pink and work 2 rows in pink. Cast off. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Tah-dah! You’ve made one side of your bag. Now carry on and knit the second side in exactly the same way. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">When you’ve got the two sides knit, weave in your loose ends, and block them. I do this by placing a towel on my ironing board, folded over so that I have a double or treble thicknesses of material to pin my knitting to. Then I pin the knitting so that it’s a nice straight rectangle without any curling edges. I use my iron, tanked up with some scented ironing water to keep things smelling wonderful. With the steam setting turned up to maximum strength I move it slowly over the knitting, hovering just a few millimetres above the textile, but without actually touching it. You want the knitting to be steamed without getting singed in the process. Then I just leave it for several hours – or overnight if possible – before I unpin everything. When I’m done I have a very well-behaved textile that doesn’t curl up around the edges. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Using the correct colour of wool to produce invisible seams on each colour section, sew the two knitted sides together, right sides facing, and take your side seam to within 6 cm of the top end of the bag. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Do not sew this last 6 cm of the knitted fabric as this will be used to wrap around and sew-in the round handles. When you’re done with the side seams turn the bag so that the right sides are on the outside. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2ASwXUxKb6Og033iFn5jEie_L2eoNlk4Lq9dA1x8FWyYTK8dRsRtP1X2EyvWOZTulUcu2HOsSRddb_Qbaz9C4DPVoW_EV__VRpyAL0W00c7tvgB6CEEOqmISYi7KbHiZl1TAZ7Eriic/s1600/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN2ASwXUxKb6Og033iFn5jEie_L2eoNlk4Lq9dA1x8FWyYTK8dRsRtP1X2EyvWOZTulUcu2HOsSRddb_Qbaz9C4DPVoW_EV__VRpyAL0W00c7tvgB6CEEOqmISYi7KbHiZl1TAZ7Eriic/s320/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+4.jpg" width="287" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Now it’s time to attach the handles. I chose simple circular handles of approximately 17 cm diameter, made of a bamboo that was dressed up to look like some sort of horn. Maybe I'd had too much sun, but they looked a bit <i>Gucci</i> to me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Wrap the top of the bag around the handles (see photo below) and stitch it down. I stitched the pink cast-off stitches to the back of the pink stitches on the row above the last pattern row of yellow dots. All of the green lines are on the inner side of the bag – my idea being that they would only be visible on looking into the interior. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And then sew the other handle into the other side using the same technique. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Now you’re ready for the lining. Cut the lining fabric in a rectangle 38cm wide x 76 cm long. Using an overlocking stitch run a row of stitches all the way around the perimeter of the cloth to secure the raw edges. The idea here is really simple: I’ve allowed a 1.5 cm seam allowance all round, which we’re going to use to produce a simple fabric envelope to insert into the knitted outer casing. All we have to do is fold the rectangle in half, and sew up the two sides to produce the desired effect.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOr7oW0FAr1yFYc1MldaXGj6EGN1ISjmtWTdRuYMpxIYerGisMmIrKXIj_y-psNlXLDE5J5M4mc8NsRHrN9uX89OdVk5E8T8gUiTAc1N5l0v27PTlQkTJF1AxXqxVPxWuCJdJuKD9_sE/s1600/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUOr7oW0FAr1yFYc1MldaXGj6EGN1ISjmtWTdRuYMpxIYerGisMmIrKXIj_y-psNlXLDE5J5M4mc8NsRHrN9uX89OdVk5E8T8gUiTAc1N5l0v27PTlQkTJF1AxXqxVPxWuCJdJuKD9_sE/s320/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Fold the rectangle in the middle with the right sides facing one another to produce a double-thickness square that measures 38 cm x 38 cm. Now pin and tack the two sides of the rectangle to within 6 cm of the upper edge. Sew these side seams and, using your iron, press them open into 2 flat seams that run to within 6 cm of the upper edge. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQHMo9CZvpR-yqnaiYU2aRsYFMNcoa-WjZ0iBoLzjrmgm6qUSqXw9qqcHC1F5atsfqN7AUjflEkrbM9DO26pB5ZCBl48d5BC84TOC5iEFPBvORaCSW4LK86OyUNLqROmhQ5QlnuiK80V8/s1600/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQHMo9CZvpR-yqnaiYU2aRsYFMNcoa-WjZ0iBoLzjrmgm6qUSqXw9qqcHC1F5atsfqN7AUjflEkrbM9DO26pB5ZCBl48d5BC84TOC5iEFPBvORaCSW4LK86OyUNLqROmhQ5QlnuiK80V8/s320/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On the upper edge, work a rolled seam</span> of 3cm (1.5 cm turned over), and finish off by hand using a simple row of blanket stitches on the wrong side. This will produce a liner of the same depth as the knitted bag.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuF8aXoT6PmAOhigCceE5NsnDW7zJL6XMDzDPBiKlnMaQEgsVAsbaFCrA4giSGVozA_O9kMC8jL_exlBkX8kTCdohAULwLUDd4gOo7RQYiS_990a7SvlA3VTxbd_flp99CvpP2hDvG6WE/s1600/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuF8aXoT6PmAOhigCceE5NsnDW7zJL6XMDzDPBiKlnMaQEgsVAsbaFCrA4giSGVozA_O9kMC8jL_exlBkX8kTCdohAULwLUDd4gOo7RQYiS_990a7SvlA3VTxbd_flp99CvpP2hDvG6WE/s320/spotty+dotty+knitted+bag+12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Insert your lining into the knitted outer casing of the bag and finish off by sewing it in place using a simple row of rolled stitches to secure it to the folded over edge of the top of the knitted fabric. The right side of the lining will form the visible inner lining of the bag. You may have to rip the side seams a little to get the lining the fit. Just rip back as far as you need to, and secure the side seam with a few hand stitches to prevent it from unravelling any further.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzfY3iT2mPshK_adg703OHZ5Qw0i4x-4T7qmSJo0PnAfAWTivn2OTznJUo6n8N6cQm5ReRV1K1XY39Pu5z7DhG93Q_EhLJhTTchIqkSnTVWF2pZwKEAzjOcIu8SSRwaOYCiL4iAciOhE/s1600/spotty+dotty+knit+bag+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnzfY3iT2mPshK_adg703OHZ5Qw0i4x-4T7qmSJo0PnAfAWTivn2OTznJUo6n8N6cQm5ReRV1K1XY39Pu5z7DhG93Q_EhLJhTTchIqkSnTVWF2pZwKEAzjOcIu8SSRwaOYCiL4iAciOhE/s320/spotty+dotty+knit+bag+1.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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And that’s about it. Ta-dah! You’re done. Now you’ve got a cheerful bag to carry your next project around in.</div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">All the best for now,<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.8000011444092px;">Bonny x</span></span></div>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-74474535019683480382016-05-04T15:56:00.003+01:002016-05-04T15:56:35.987+01:00Doggy Bandana ...And here we have the Wonderdog modelling this season's must-have fashion accessory: the Argyll doggy bandana ... the last <strike>word</strike> woof in canine cool ...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHW8DFp6edU37k97ceQXPY6e4mqgPE12Vrbi3L3E6QaaPHUceRhXUWsk-W5iPfvqn_lByqAYfJkwRhNFE9Ksrwd21aXQlQidmccDO0ota9yT_Hea6ft8pIV4SwLjaYRRfSUt2U417rAvY/s1600/doggy+bandana+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHW8DFp6edU37k97ceQXPY6e4mqgPE12Vrbi3L3E6QaaPHUceRhXUWsk-W5iPfvqn_lByqAYfJkwRhNFE9Ksrwd21aXQlQidmccDO0ota9yT_Hea6ft8pIV4SwLjaYRRfSUt2U417rAvY/s640/doggy+bandana+1.jpg" width="466" /></a></div>
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He's watching me with rapt attention because I've got a doggy biscuit balanced on top of my camera, and he's absolutely determined that next door's pesky cat, who's always lurking on the other side of the garden wall, isn't going to get her paws on it any time soon.<br />
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The Wonderdog is a miniature schnauzer, but this size of bandana would work for any small dog of similar proportions.<br />
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It's been knit with double knitting wool on 4 mm needles, which gave me a tension of 17 stitches x 27 rows on a 10 cm x 10 cm/ 4" x 4" square, and it can be made with scraps of wool from your stash.<br />
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Just read on for the pattern:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOL3L7fDLPpavhqGimlocXl_acSVh0jOj0bbxORRePKP84NDCLajqC6MOz38ofVUHVR5oornaKUCeuwDpuDdNuy6Gr7AXE0KjcpgkXcd2iWSkZyb1IOu31vZhgHT3R5a7Mbd2fMRHdVE/s1600/doggy+bandana.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnOL3L7fDLPpavhqGimlocXl_acSVh0jOj0bbxORRePKP84NDCLajqC6MOz38ofVUHVR5oornaKUCeuwDpuDdNuy6Gr7AXE0KjcpgkXcd2iWSkZyb1IOu31vZhgHT3R5a7Mbd2fMRHdVE/s320/doggy+bandana.jpg" width="243" /></a></div>
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Let me start off with a sketch of what's involved so that you'll understand what we're doing as we go along. This pattern starts at the bottom with the point (which is actually 3 stitches) and then we work our way up to the ties at the top. The blue edging is just a single chain of crochet stitched around the edge when the bandana has been knit. The main part of the bandana is worked in stocking stitch (knit all the odd rows and purl all the even ones).</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJyxPTOsfi7RWpmhSle1mze7uvQDf0B1haahGjmAoiNg5FKUSCBBfcAzkG3JxSudmX9e3lNq2grvN3aMulxfIYqfN6v8jA257Kq83IYHecQfq-x20WuEnP1LxIsIB19IpCB90wCL8oVSI/s1600/doggy+bandana+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJyxPTOsfi7RWpmhSle1mze7uvQDf0B1haahGjmAoiNg5FKUSCBBfcAzkG3JxSudmX9e3lNq2grvN3aMulxfIYqfN6v8jA257Kq83IYHecQfq-x20WuEnP1LxIsIB19IpCB90wCL8oVSI/s640/doggy+bandana+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outline of bandana pattern</td></tr>
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Begin by casting on 3 stitches.</div>
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Row 1: knit into the front and back of the first stitch (<i>kfb), </i>knit 1 (<i>k1)</i>, kfb. (5 stitches)</div>
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Rows 2 and 3: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 4: purl 1 (<i>P1)</i>, Purl into the front and back of the next stitch (<i>pfb), </i> P1, pfb, p1 (7 stitches)</div>
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Rows 5 and 6: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 7: k1, kfb, K3, kfb, k1 (9 stitches)</div>
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Rows 8 and 9: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 10: p1, pfb, P5, pfb, p1 (11 stitches)</div>
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Rows 11 and 12: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 13: k1, kfb, k7, kfb, k1 (13 stitches)</div>
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Row 14: purl</div>
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Row 15: knit - this is the row on which you start the Argyll pattern. And here's a diagram showing how the Argyll pattern works. On this row you knit the first stitch in the main colour, and the second stitch in the contrasting colour. You carry on in the main colour for stitches 3 to 11 inclusive, and then knit the twelfth stitch in the contrast and the final stitch in the main colour. </div>
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On the following rows (ending with row 31) you need to combine the Argyll pattern with the shaping at either side.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsTKWpwq6if_FqhOONtgQ9iPWeeuEie3hD8P8gGFpLamDq6CSXtcD36klqfe73io7W16cpH0iwzy0JevGauvVqBDIRwbcJyq0-eE2mVzSg9ccysS-VC5AEZMTbQvn9jWOye9LFpDVRZM/s1600/doggy+bandana+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHsTKWpwq6if_FqhOONtgQ9iPWeeuEie3hD8P8gGFpLamDq6CSXtcD36klqfe73io7W16cpH0iwzy0JevGauvVqBDIRwbcJyq0-eE2mVzSg9ccysS-VC5AEZMTbQvn9jWOye9LFpDVRZM/s640/doggy+bandana+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Argyll pattern for the centre of the bandana</td></tr>
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Row 16: p1, pfb, p9, pfb, p1 (15 stitches)</div>
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Rows 17 and 18: stocking stitch.</div>
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Row 19: k1 kfb, k11, kfb, k1 (17 stitches)</div>
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Rows 20 and 21: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 22: p1, pfb, p13, pfb, p1 (19 stitches)</div>
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Rows 23 and 24: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 25: k1, kfb, k15, kfb, k1 (21 stitches)</div>
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Rows 26 and 27: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 28: p1, pfb, p17, pfb, p1 (23 stitches)</div>
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Rows 29 and 30: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 31: k1, kfb, k19, kfb, k1 (25 stitches) - this is the final row of the Argyll pattern</div>
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Rows 32 and 33: stocking stitch</div>
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Row 34: p1, pfb, p21, pfb, p1 (27 stitches)</div>
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Rows 35 and 36: stocking stitch. At the end of row 36 cast on 28 stitches using the backward loop method. </div>
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Row 37: knit across the cast-on stitches and the other 27 pre-existing stitches and at the end of the row cast on another 28 stitches using the backward loop method.</div>
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Rows 38 to 42: stocking stitch.</div>
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Cast off knit-wise, darn in your loose ends, crochet around the edge if you want to and block.</div>
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And that's it: your pooch is ready to promenade in the park with oodles of style and street cred!</div>
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All the best for now,</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.8px;">Bonny x</span></div>
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<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-84398219032439862902016-05-04T15:56:00.002+01:002016-05-04T15:56:27.945+01:00Jug cover ... with sea glass beads ... Are you geared up for lemonade season?<br />
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It's always the simple things in life that matter most. And one of my favourite summer pleasures is a glass of ice-cold lemonade, sipped in the shade of my London plane tree on a hot, sunny day. It's even better when you make it for yourself. I've worked out own recipe using xylitol in place of sugar so that it's kinder to our tooth enamel. You can find my recipe for pink, homemade lemonade that won't rot your teeth here: <a href="http://www.justsaying2u.com/2014/08/how-to-make-very-best-pink-sparkling.html">The Very Best Homemade Lemonade</a><br />
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But the problem with enjoying that precious glass of anything outside is the flies. There's nothing quite like a dead bug floating on the top of one of those lovely bubbles to put you right off. So I've made this jug cover, weighed down by threaded shells and sea glass that I've beach-combed, to keep those pesky insects at bay:</div>
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It's pretty easy to make ...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtn8Pq2BqCjECdlJcTnVldtOFJLcQggX1B_27J_QgoDExHWYW1L8S6WiawM9UH33uoV8hsQ8bTc3_2tf8OYgBs85iJBBIPoF9JMZPhP1dehiiZt2omqLI-jhGEMjhf7J-_Bi80Hgj7zlA/s1600/jug+cover+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtn8Pq2BqCjECdlJcTnVldtOFJLcQggX1B_27J_QgoDExHWYW1L8S6WiawM9UH33uoV8hsQ8bTc3_2tf8OYgBs85iJBBIPoF9JMZPhP1dehiiZt2omqLI-jhGEMjhf7J-_Bi80Hgj7zlA/s640/jug+cover+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You could, of course, use normal glass beads. I've gone for a seaside theme and added a few nautical charms (from a craft shop) to my shells and sea glass to complete the look.<br />
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I used Wendy Supreme 4 ply 100% cotton yarn in sand and light blue working on 2.5 mm double ended knitting needles (5 of) for the main circle of the cover and a 2.00 mm crochet hook for the border.<br />
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You need to start by casting on 8 stitches, and then dividing them so that you have two stitches on each of four needles. You will use the fifth needle to knit in the round. This bit is fiddly, but it gets easier as you knit on. Once you get started the 4 needle arrangement holds itself in place with the natural tension of the knitting. But be especially careful when you start knitting so that your first row doesn't get twisted.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzzBHqZYv-okcHRaq7M12snODrWfOCCxU953Plv0MfPxdFFaFvVaab0yYt9xUZaDL41vIizRJwgQb9sccCNjCU39pA-b2BAYWsh6aLeI-e3dl9bkMZ5i_H4i_1BF9xsnslW0F7nj-zB4/s1600/Jug+cover+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQzzBHqZYv-okcHRaq7M12snODrWfOCCxU953Plv0MfPxdFFaFvVaab0yYt9xUZaDL41vIizRJwgQb9sccCNjCU39pA-b2BAYWsh6aLeI-e3dl9bkMZ5i_H4i_1BF9xsnslW0F7nj-zB4/s400/Jug+cover+5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Knit the first row.<br />
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On the second row, knit into the front and back of every stitch on each of the needles. At the end of the second row you should have 16 stitches: 4 on each needle.<br />
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Knit rows three to five.<br />
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On row 6 you double the stitches again by knitting into the front and back of each stitch. At the end of this row you should have 32 stitches in total.<br />
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Rows 7 to 11 are knit rows.<br />
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Row 12: double the number of stitches by knitting into the front and back of each stitch all the way round. At the end of this row you should have 64 stitches.<br />
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Knit Rows 13 to 19.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzpc2sXUoFpluwq1yhOEOTRqYN6EEzLOP0li1dg5vxzKH7ZUy57pyLC-9pGbbsutUy8ePg-sOA7fOAXAWUn1BaT4PHmwYgk_Q_IcmMi8z5Em8_FindJQZ6mNuwuqraNVt4z7dWhPW4Tyc/s1600/Jug+Cover+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzpc2sXUoFpluwq1yhOEOTRqYN6EEzLOP0li1dg5vxzKH7ZUy57pyLC-9pGbbsutUy8ePg-sOA7fOAXAWUn1BaT4PHmwYgk_Q_IcmMi8z5Em8_FindJQZ6mNuwuqraNVt4z7dWhPW4Tyc/s320/Jug+Cover+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Row 20: Add another 32 stitches by knitting into the front and back of every second stitch on each of the four needles. At the end of this row you should have 96 stitches in total.<br />
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Knit Rows 21 to 25.<br />
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Row 26: Add another 32 stitches by knitting into the front and back of every third stitch on each of the four needles. At the end of this row you should have 128 stitches.<br />
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Knit Rows 27 to 31.<br />
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Row 32: Add another 32 stitches by knitting into the front and back of every fourth stitch on each of the four needles. At the end of this row you should have 160 Stitches.<br />
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Knit Rows 33 to 35.<br />
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Cast off knitwise.<br />
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I was aiming at a circle with a 17 cm. diameter, but if you'd like to make a bigger one, just carry on doing a 32 stitch increase on every 6th row, spreading your increases out evenly along the rows. The next increase row, for example, would be row 38 and it would involve knitting into the front and back of every 5th stitch.<br />
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Once you've cast off, you need to block the circle.<br />
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I do this on the ironing board, pinning the circle to a towel and then hovering over it with a hot steam iron so that the knitting becomes saturated with the vapour of the ironing water. Don't let the hot surface of the iron touch the textile. Just hold it very close so that the steam from the steam jets sprays across it. </div>
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Then leave it overnight to dry off, and, by the next morning, it will have stretched and flattened into an altogether better-behaved textile that doesn't curl up around the edge. </div>
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When the main circle is blocked, you're ready to add the picot edging.<br />
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I used a contrasting blue colour for this. With the right side facing towards you join on with a slip stitch. Chain one, miss the first double crochet and do a double crochet stitch into the next one. Then work your way all around the circumference with a row of double crochet stitches (UK terminology). Join to the first chain 1 with a slip stitch.<br />
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Row 2: Chain 1, miss the first double crochet and then work a double crochet into the next one. *Chain 5, miss one double crochet and then work a double crochet into the next stitch. Work another double crochet into the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * all the way round. Cast off, darn in your ends, and sew your beads to the picot edging. <br />
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Ta-dah! You're done!</div>
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Time to put your feet up and celebrate with a nice glass of lemonade.</div>
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All the best for now,</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span></div>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-75973157280372127212016-05-04T15:56:00.001+01:002016-05-04T15:56:15.532+01:00Sea Rose Corsage ...I've been having a bit of play over here at Talk-a-Lot Towers. The sun is shining, the sky is blue, my roses are blooming and I'm really enjoying the wonderful summer weather. Earlier today, as I was trying to design a rose as decoration for another creation that I'm working on, I came up with this sea rose corsage:<br />
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What do you think? In the very centre I've made a bead out of a piece of sea glass, beach-combed from our village beach last summer. It was the inspiration for the sea blue and sand colours that I chose to crochet in - and, hence, the notion of a sea rose.<br />
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Just read on for the low-down on how to make one of your own ...<br />
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I used Wendy Supreme 4 ply 100% cotton yarn in sand and blue (colours 1821 and 1824) and worked on a 2.5 mm crochet hook.<br />
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Row 1: Chain 6 stitches and join with a slip stitch to make a circle.<br />
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Row 2: [to make the central rosette of the flower]: Chain 3 and treble 11 into the centre of founding circle, working all the way round to create a rosette. Join with a slip stitch into the third chain of the first chain 3.<br />
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Row 3: *Slip stitch into next stitch, chain 3, Treble 2 chain 3 and join with a slip stitch, all into the same stitch* (this forms the first petal), work a slip stitch into the next stitch, then repeat from * to * to make another petal. Carry on in this way all the way round the circle until you have created 6, evenly spaced, petals. Cast off this colour when you're done.<br />
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By the end of Row 3 your rose should look a bit like this:<br />
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Row 4: Now it's time to join the other colour - blue in my case. Join it with a slip stitch on the reverse side of the rose in the space between two of the Row 3 petals.</div>
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And then work a petal into the same stitch - as per the instructions from * to * of row 3. Slip stitch across the back of the next row 3 petal, and work a slip stitch into the stitch between it and the next row 3 petal along. Work another petal as per * to * in that space. And carry on all the way round the back of the rose until you have another 6 petals worked into the spaces between the row 3 petals.<br />
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By the time you're done the back of your rose should look a bit like this:<br />
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And when you turn it over so that the <i>right</i> side is up it should look a bit like this:<br />
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Now darn all your stray ends of wool so that they all come from the same spot on the back of the rose, and holding the rose up so that they fall freely down, trim them to an even length so that they look a little bit like a tail on the comet that is your sea rose.</div>
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You could sew a pretty button in the centre your rose. That would look great. But I've got a big jam pot full of beach-combed sea glass that Emi and I carefully collected all last year, which I'm keen as mustard to use at every available opportunity. </div>
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So, first of all, I chose the perfect gem of sea glass to form the centre of my rose. Here it is: </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDIch40PERJ7ONCoty5iwnCWv5SCpbaFtwFO3DmnL3DeZ1dt-a-ZesgOS-NO4S0FRJxkfwhtX_8PrgD9bh5Yt3wWzHn0ygkfZmZ4x8cTGmmAPfdwKzFEW0Oa9rCIksBNbr0z9j6Qteqk/s1600/Sea+Rose+Corsage+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheDIch40PERJ7ONCoty5iwnCWv5SCpbaFtwFO3DmnL3DeZ1dt-a-ZesgOS-NO4S0FRJxkfwhtX_8PrgD9bh5Yt3wWzHn0ygkfZmZ4x8cTGmmAPfdwKzFEW0Oa9rCIksBNbr0z9j6Qteqk/s320/Sea+Rose+Corsage+10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Isn't it a beauty?</div>
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I bought some 0.25 mm silver coloured beading wire and very carefully wrapped it around the sea glass so that it held it securely. This was a bit of a fiddle, but, after a couple of attempts, I managed to get the glass gripped by the string-around-a-parcel-like folds of the wire.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaw-XftoxQ23pY0ubW2MUQaN0DL3r_RX1b6Qc2JEknphR8zoAt-fV9z9hHR0E7PjlXANaVvkvMO_6BbooZdTn9KweBkNEdI2mGsPcnsXYCPq8ge_eeT4qTIyVmh8AuTOqyimjQjtpYXDs/s1600/Sea+Rose+corsage+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaw-XftoxQ23pY0ubW2MUQaN0DL3r_RX1b6Qc2JEknphR8zoAt-fV9z9hHR0E7PjlXANaVvkvMO_6BbooZdTn9KweBkNEdI2mGsPcnsXYCPq8ge_eeT4qTIyVmh8AuTOqyimjQjtpYXDs/s320/Sea+Rose+corsage+11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you want to position the sea glass over the hole in the centre of the rose and bring the two ends of the wire through the knitted fabric to the back, where you twist them around a safety pin to hold everything together and provide a means of attaching your corsage to your lapel.</div>
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And that's it. Ta-dah! You've just made your sea rose corsage, the perfect jewel to wear with your favourite summer outfits. </div>
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Enjoy!</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span></div>
<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-13843458495578273812016-05-04T15:56:00.000+01:002016-05-04T15:56:01.989+01:00The bewitching Ms. Witch ...<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">So how do you like Ms. Witch? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGU5vvOMp2A3bb8hPo1HxV9GfmpFSu5j6CQKbttcZ54X_W0q-8x0kTiG_pHcmiGrELBe9Ss46_aPQ2ks5_7V3xA1QJrFScinp7_NsGgFHU2bR2luR0CXDyZLAvS3kGbtvdkwl1UNm5KkU/s1600/Ms.+Witch+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGU5vvOMp2A3bb8hPo1HxV9GfmpFSu5j6CQKbttcZ54X_W0q-8x0kTiG_pHcmiGrELBe9Ss46_aPQ2ks5_7V3xA1QJrFScinp7_NsGgFHU2bR2luR0CXDyZLAvS3kGbtvdkwl1UNm5KkU/s640/Ms.+Witch+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I cast her off yesterday, and then showed her to Emi when he came home from school, thinking that she would be of no great interest to a nine year old boy like him, but he immediately fell under her spell. </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I love her,</span></i><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> he said. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Can I have her? She can sit beside Swampy, and keep him company when I'm at school.</i></span></div>
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Now I should explain that <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Swampy</i> is the latest addition to Emi’s growing menagerie. <i>Swampy </i>is a carnivore, aVenus Fly Trap plant, who hangs out on the mantelpiece in Emi's bedroom. We got <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Swampy</i> a few weeks ago by way of a Sunday afternoon bribe for doing a heavy weekend of homework. And every day since then Emi has been very conscientious about giving <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Swampy</i> a drink. The plant label told us that <i>he</i> liked to live in swamps – hence the name, and the zealous watering regime.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Anyway I digress: back to Ms. Witch. She’s made using Worsted weight yarn. I’ve used Sublime Extra Fine Merino Worsted, which is a truly lovely yarn to work with: really soft with little tendency to split. I chose autumnal colours to match the season: Wicker (061) for the skin tones, Jet Black (013) for the black bits, Mole (056) for her brown hair and Marmalade (478) for the pumpkin orange bits. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">When I’m making toys I like to use smaller needles than they recommend for the yarn in order to get a nice tightly woven knit. To my way of thinking it wouldn’t look good if we were able to see Ms Witch’s stuffing through her dress. For this weight of yarn you’d normally use 4.5 mm needles, but I chose to use 3 mm needles to get the desired result. This produced a tension of 25 stitches x 30 rows for a 10cm x 10 cm/ 4" x 4" swatch.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">If you’d like to make her, she’s pretty straightforward. Just read on for the pattern.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcOESVvHkEu7oa2RHjQAypvXij6jls42KZ4ShCnVI91q6GoXo_uC1VmN_lODj9CyOPot5mAmIhkfzY5cSt7prq_a5FJ9Ipm_TvhXMn8bLnFpLcX8RXHxuXZClIKr4l8QMzwO_hrk7eTg/s1600/Ms+Witch+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMcOESVvHkEu7oa2RHjQAypvXij6jls42KZ4ShCnVI91q6GoXo_uC1VmN_lODj9CyOPot5mAmIhkfzY5cSt7prq_a5FJ9Ipm_TvhXMn8bLnFpLcX8RXHxuXZClIKr4l8QMzwO_hrk7eTg/s640/Ms+Witch+8.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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Starting with the right foot using black wool:</div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cast on 3 stitches.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Knit 2 rows in <i><b>stocking stitch</b></i> i.e. knit the first row and purl the second and carry on knitting the odd rows and purling the even ones.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 3: Knit into the front and back </span>(<i><b>kfb</b></i>) of each stitch – at the end of this row you will have 6 stitches on the needle.</div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 4: Purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 5: <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">kfb </i>of each stitch across the row –increasing the number of stitches to 12.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 6 to 10: work in stocking stitch, starting with a purl row on row 6.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 11: *Knit 1, Knit 2 together* across the row, decreasing the number of stitches to 8.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 12: Purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cut the black wool and continue in the skin-coloured wool.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 13 to 34: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At the end of row 34 cut the skin-coloured wool and join the orange wool. We’re going to carry on in orange to knit the right leg of Ms Witch’s pumpkin pants, which she wears under her skirt to keep herself warm when she’s out flying her broomstick … .<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 35 to 40: work in stocking stitch using the orange wool. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At the end of row 40 cut the yarn, and leave the stitches on a spare needle or a stitch holder, while you knit the second leg.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIxmgscolKxNeoJIlFKcdMzVnVYWVIvZ8RnvUyrlqdhq92TcmJ0kw5beVvYjwwM7NEfixWZC9_6bdtptC1Ch9LLaasdcc3vfqFu-p8ij4ErcYZrGAxG3WuZnXcO7-AzPu-I2PTD-Qe8eM/s1600/Ms+Witch+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIxmgscolKxNeoJIlFKcdMzVnVYWVIvZ8RnvUyrlqdhq92TcmJ0kw5beVvYjwwM7NEfixWZC9_6bdtptC1Ch9LLaasdcc3vfqFu-p8ij4ErcYZrGAxG3WuZnXcO7-AzPu-I2PTD-Qe8eM/s320/Ms+Witch+1.jpg" width="203" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Now make a start on the left foot by following the above pattern for the right foot and leg, but when you’ve finished row 40, do <u>not</u> cut the yarn. You will use the orange coloured yarn to knit across both legs on row 41. This will give you a row of 16 stitches.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTaZclgWL7cAGgSYnnPSEtsLKVblybUuTOmC5eTH_exdeDv6y0Otsc7xHFWNkUvNZ1gRSG_z9QKdo4W1hldMCXqxCxOU77nfmocOy80iVk49ybxGnwYlCeckdOdgZKEnBhAv1qldZlXgY/s1600/Ms+Witch+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTaZclgWL7cAGgSYnnPSEtsLKVblybUuTOmC5eTH_exdeDv6y0Otsc7xHFWNkUvNZ1gRSG_z9QKdo4W1hldMCXqxCxOU77nfmocOy80iVk49ybxGnwYlCeckdOdgZKEnBhAv1qldZlXgY/s320/Ms+Witch+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 42: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>43: *knit1, kfb of next stitch*. Repeat from * to * across the row to increase the number of stitches by 8 to 24 i.e. at the end of this row you will have 24 stitches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 44 to 46: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 47: *knit 2, kfb of next stitch*. Repeat from * to * across the row to increase the number of stitches by 8 to 32 i.e. at the end of this row you will have 32 stitches.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 48 to 52: work in stocking stitch. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At the end of row 52 cut the yarn and join the skin coloured yarn. You’ve just finished Ms Witch’s pumpkin pants!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga6SxV-5rncMzMzbEahTuYaIz9COmNwfymZCn-IZtUwCyk7PCv0dlit32rGjLu2IRTYRapSoGEAUIvVAu3G1WG_1CuAKUdXACZ-SPF-QaHqWKs-wiZpd4hd80z9XYAIFw119LgiqQKuuU/s1600/Ms.+Witch+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga6SxV-5rncMzMzbEahTuYaIz9COmNwfymZCn-IZtUwCyk7PCv0dlit32rGjLu2IRTYRapSoGEAUIvVAu3G1WG_1CuAKUdXACZ-SPF-QaHqWKs-wiZpd4hd80z9XYAIFw119LgiqQKuuU/s320/Ms.+Witch+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 53 to 70: work in stocking stitch in the black yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Shape the shoulders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 71: *Knit 2, Knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row, decreasing the number of stitches by 8 and leaving you with 24 stitches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 72 to 74: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 75: *Knit 1, Knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row, decreasing the number of stitches by 8 and leaving you with 16. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 76 to 78: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 79: *Knit 2, Knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row, decreasing the number of stitches by 4 and leaving you with 12. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 80 to 82: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 83: *Knit 2, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row, decreasing the number of stitches by 3 and leaving you with 9.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 84: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cut the yarn and join the skin-toned yarn to knit the neck and head. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 85 and 86: work in stocking stitch. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Row 87: kfb of every stitch across the row, doubling the number of stitches to 18. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 88: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 89: kfb into every stitch across the row, doubling the number of stitches to 36.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 90 to 106: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 107: knit 2 together all the way across, halving the number of stitches to 18.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 108: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 109: knit 2 together all the way across, halving the number of stitches to 9.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 110: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 111: *knit 1, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * all the way across. By the end of this row you should have 6 stitches.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cut the yarn and draw it through the remaining stitches, pulling them tight to form the top of the head.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The arms, both the same:<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cast on 6 stitches using the skin-coloured yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 1: *knit 1, kfb of next stitch*. Repeat from * to * across the row, increasing the number of stitches by 3 to 9.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 2 to 8: work in stocking stitch. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 9: *knit 1, knit 2 together* across the row, decreasing the number of stitches by 3 to 6. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 10 to 18: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cut the yarn and join the orange yarn to knit the trim on the sleeves.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 19 and 20: work in stocking stitch using the orange yarn.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cut the yarn and join the black yarn to knit the sleeve.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 21 to 24: work in stocking stitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 25: *knit 1, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row reducing the number of stitches to 4.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 26: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 27: knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. At the end of this row you have 3 stitches. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 28: purl.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cast off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_NyH-doYfupxcbW7-uZSyc8LK5Ac_Ng6DajXIUXpKboQ2NzijfRxsO8en2Q7rglfDGi6Kj_1RbcLRbzyyAPYSgt2j9uQaFO3byLOshfuVQRORn7tHXx7zTyoZat0y7To5OwaN2Guga4s/s1600/Ms+Witch+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_NyH-doYfupxcbW7-uZSyc8LK5Ac_Ng6DajXIUXpKboQ2NzijfRxsO8en2Q7rglfDGi6Kj_1RbcLRbzyyAPYSgt2j9uQaFO3byLOshfuVQRORn7tHXx7zTyoZat0y7To5OwaN2Guga4s/s640/Ms+Witch+10.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Skirt: <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cast on 88 stitches using the orange wool. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cut the yarn and join the black yarn to knit the rest of the skirt. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Knit in stocking stitch until the skirt measures 2½ cm/ 1 " ending with a purl (wrong side row).</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Shaping Row 1: (right side row) *Knit 2, Knit 2 together*. Repeat from *to* across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 22 stitches and have 66 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 2 to 4: work in stocking stitch.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 5: *Knit 1, Knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 22 stitches and have 44 stitches remaining. </span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 6 to 8: work in stocking stitch.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 9: *Knit 2, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row. </span>By the end of this row you will have lost 11 stitches and have 33 stitches remaining.<br />
Rows 10 to 14: work in stocking stitch.<br />
Cast off.<br />
<br />
When you've cast off the skirt, you really need to block it so that it doesn't curl. Just pin it out on a nice thick towel into its proper shape, steam spray it with an iron hovering just above the wool without touching it, leave it overnight and when you unpin it in the morning it will be <i>super well behaved</i> - I promise!<br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hat:</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Using the two needle cast-on method, *cast on 6 stitches, knit the first two stitches and pass the first stitch over the second, knit another stitch and pass it over the knitted stitch on the right hand needle. Transfer this stitch back to the left hand needle*. Repeat from * to *. Carry on in this way until you have a total of 40 stitches and a fancy edging for your witch's hat that will look like this: </span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlK4V2YG9gomQR4_2DdrCrKy1h8Ijhh6vxwRdV8tTzDj2zxSCS68hcehtUGdeyL1CDC5j2cQa2SnI_lVUmtwpMKHWy4h6Q_-RrUS0Z-ERw8e8_LhqDsX4paZqYYfIlcfoHmmg6dOEL3rE/s1600/Ms+Wtich+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlK4V2YG9gomQR4_2DdrCrKy1h8Ijhh6vxwRdV8tTzDj2zxSCS68hcehtUGdeyL1CDC5j2cQa2SnI_lVUmtwpMKHWy4h6Q_-RrUS0Z-ERw8e8_LhqDsX4paZqYYfIlcfoHmmg6dOEL3rE/s640/Ms+Wtich+5.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">This edging will naturally tend to curl up and form the brim of the hat. We won't block it, but instead we'll leave it to do its thing and curl up. </span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 1 to 6: work in stocking stitch.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 7: *Knit 2, Knit 2 together* across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 10 stitches and have 30 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 8 to 16: work in stocking stitch.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 17: Knit 1 *Knit 2, Knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * until last stitch, knit 1. By the end of this row you will have lost 7 stitches and have 23 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 18 to 26: work in stocking stitch.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 27: knit 1, *knit 1, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * to last stitch, knit 1. By the end of this row you will have lost 7 stitches and have 16 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Rows 28 to 32: work in stocking stitch.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 33: *knit 2, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 4 stitches and have 12 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 34: purl.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 35: *knit 2, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 3 stitches and have 9 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 36: purl.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 37: *knit 1, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 3 stitches and have 6 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 38: purl.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 39: *knit 1, knit 2 together*. Repeat from * to * across the row. By the end of this row you will have lost 2 stitches and have 4 stitches remaining.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 40: purl.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 41: Knit 2 together, knit 2 together. This will leave you with 2 stitches. </span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Row 42: purl.</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Cast off </span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIBushK3qtmgf_GLOewZ8EwiQyQm0r49Rn33WlEewPW-FguMnukL6jMwTt-hm5-Y0C4fO0ZxWHP5VWNvaniznOOC5SfpTbgFD3dBrc-VHgOqNESWbry7qJsAPO6skvXNxmqooRMP7yen0/s1600/Ms.+Witch+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIBushK3qtmgf_GLOewZ8EwiQyQm0r49Rn33WlEewPW-FguMnukL6jMwTt-hm5-Y0C4fO0ZxWHP5VWNvaniznOOC5SfpTbgFD3dBrc-VHgOqNESWbry7qJsAPO6skvXNxmqooRMP7yen0/s320/Ms.+Witch+12.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Finishing</span><br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>Sew the witch's body, head and legs. Stuff with some soft toy stuffing. Before sewing up the head insert some safety eyes, aligning them so that they sit evenly on her face. <u>Please note that these eyes are not recommended if you are going to give Ms Witch to anyone under the age of 3.</u> If that is the case it would be safer to embroider some eyes that won't create a choking risk.<br />
<br />
Sew up the arms and attach.<br />
<br />
Lace the lengths of the brown wool through her head with a 3 mm crochet hook to form her hair. It's best to start at the top and work your way down her head until you get a hairstyle that you like. I laced a double length of the wool through, each time, and then pulled the ends through the loop as shown in the photo below so that it holds tight. Don't pull too tightly or you'll disfigure the texture: gently does it.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
Crochet a belt for her waist in orange wool. I did a one chain crochet, which I tied in place using the cast on and cast off ends to create a bow at the back.<br />
<br />
Thread some lengths of orange wool as the ties on her ballet pumps as shown below:<br />
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span>
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I used some embroidery thread to give her a smile and two pink cheeks. Be careful with your stitch tension here: don't pull the thread too tight - leave it nice and relaxed otherwise it will distort Ms Witch's face.</div>
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She originally looked like this on my jotter when I was trying to figure out how to make her. </div>
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And here she is in the flesh. </div>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-55675827821028712472016-05-04T15:55:00.003+01:002016-05-04T15:55:51.104+01:00Spring into Summer Socks ...Have you had a pyjama day recently?<br />
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I rarely get the chance to spend all day in my jim jams, but when I do there's nothing I like more than a pair of the softest woolly socks to team with some fluffy slippers as I take things easy ... really, really easy. So if you're looking for a suitably indulgent pair of socks to team with your Uggs, then look no further.<br />
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And the good news is that they're really easy to make. Moreover using double knitting wool instead of 4 ply, and knitting on 4 mm double pins turns them into a super quick project that you could easily knock out over a wet weekend.<br />
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Want to give them a go? Then read on for the pattern.<br />
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Cast on 40 stitches.<br />
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Divide your stitches between the three active needles as follows:<br />
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Needle 1: 10 stitches<br />
Needle 2: 20 stitches<br />
Needle 3: 10 stitches<br />
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Needles 1 and 3 will form the heel (when the time comes) and needle 3 will be the instep, and you just knit around in circles using the fourth needle.<br />
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If you'd like to get a more detailed explanation of <i>sock anatomy, </i>check out my post about <a href="http://www.justsaying2u.com/2015/01/how-to-knit-very-easiest-snuggly-socks.html">How to Knit the Very Easiest Snuggly Socks</a>.<br />
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Be careful at the beginning when you close your first row not to get the knitting twisted. It's important to have the material straight all the way round.<br />
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Now knit the cuff at the top of the sock: knit 1, purl 1 all the way round until your cuff is as long as you'd like it to be. I like mine to measure about 4 cm, which on these needles is about 10 rows. You can mark the end of the row with a row marker so that you know where you are, but I just watch out for the long tail from my initial cast-on, which marks the end of my rows.<br />
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Having knit the cuff you then need to knit the leg. I've chosen a big bold ribbing for these legs. It's also very easy: knit 4, purl 4 all the way round. picking up and continuing the count as you move from one needle to the next.<br />
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Just keep going until your leg's as long as you'd like it to be. On these ones I kept going until the leg and cuff together measured 17 cm. Then I got going on the heel.<br />
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<b><u>To knit the heel: </u></b><br />
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When you've finished your last leg row, purl back across needle 3 in the opposite direction to begin working the heel.<br />
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Row 1: Slip 1 knit wise, and then knit all the stitches across needle 3 and needle 1 i.e. slip 1 knit-wise and knit 19.<br />
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Remember while you're working on the heel the instep stitches on needle 2 are having a holiday: you work only with needles 1 and 3.<br />
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Row 2: Slip 1 purl wise, and then purl across all the stitches on needles 1 and 3 i.e. slip 1 purl-wise, purl 19.<br />
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Repeat rows 1 and 2 above 4 times i.e. you will effectively work 8 rows to knit the heel.<br />
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Having knit the heel you now have to turn it.<br />
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<b><u>To turn the heel: </u></b><br />
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<b>Row 1</b>: Slip 1 knit-wise, Knit 10, Slip 1 knit-wise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch, knit 1. Turn.<br />
i.e. Sl1 KW, K10, Sl1 KW, K1, PSSO, K1. Turn.<br />
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At this point you will have 6 stitches on needle 1 that have not been touched, and there will be a total of 19 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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<b>Row 2</b>: Slip 1 purl-wise, Purl 4, Purl 2 together, Purl 1. Turn<br />
i.e. Sl1 PW, P4, P2 tog. Purl 1 Turn<br />
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At this point you will have 5 stitches left unworked on needle 3, and there will be a total of 18 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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<b>Row 3</b>: Slip 1knit-wise, Knit 5, Slip 1 knit wise, knit 1, Pass slipped stitch over knit stitch, knit 1. Turn.<br />
i.e. Sl1 KW, K5, Sl1 KW, K1, PSSO, K1. Turn.<br />
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At this point you will have 4 stitches left unworked on needle 1, and there will be a total of 17 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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<b>Row 4</b>: Slip 1 purl-wise, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn<br />
i.e. Sl1 PW, P6, P2 tog. P1. Turn<br />
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At this point you will have 3 stitches left unworked on needle 3, and there will be a total of 16 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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<b>Row 5</b>: Slip 1 knit-wise, knit 7, Slip 1 knit-wise, knit 1. Pass slipped stitch over knit stitch, knit 1. Turn<br />
i.e. Sl1 KW, K7, Sl 1 KW, K1, PSSO, K1. Turn.<br />
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At this point you will have 2 stitches left unworked on needle 1, and there will be a total of 15 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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<b>Row 6</b>: Slip 1 purl-wise, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn<br />
i.e. Sl1 PW, P8, P2 tog. P1. Turn<br />
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At this point you will have 1 stitch left unworked on needle 3, and there will be a total of 14 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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<b>Row 7</b>: Slip 1 knit-wise, knit 9, Slip 1 knit-wise, knit 1. Pass slipped stitch over knit stitch, knit 1. Turn<br />
i.e. Sl1 KW, K9, Sl 1 KW, K1, PSSO, K1. Turn.<br />
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At this point you will have worked all the stitches on needle 1, and there will be a total of 13 stitches across needles 1 and 3.</div>
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<b>Row 8</b>: Slip 1 purl-wise, purl 10, purl 2 together. Turn<br />
i.e. Sl1 PW, P10, P2 tog. Turn<br />
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At this point you will have worked all the stitches on needle 3, and there will be a total of 12 stitches across needles 1 and 3.<br />
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Now we need to pick up the stitches between the heel and the instep and shape the gusset.<br />
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<b>To pick up the heel stitches: </b><br />
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Knit back across the 12 stitches remaining from needles 1 and 3.<br />
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Then, using the free needle, pick up 6 stitches across the side of the heel by knitting into the stitches that were slipped at the start of each of the heel rows.<br />
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Carry on knitting in pattern across the instep stitches on needle 2. Their holiday has ended and they're back in play again.<br />
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Then when you've worked your way across the instep stitches on needle 2, pick up another 6 stitches by knitting into the stitches that were slipped at the beginning of each row on the other side of the heel.<br />
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Now have a little play with the stitches on needles 1 and 3. Shuffle them along, slip them from needle to needle so that you have 12 heel stitches on both needles 1 and 3.<br />
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Now we're ready to lose 4 stitches from needles 1 and 3 to shape the foot gusset.<br />
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<b>To shape the foot gusset: </b></div>
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Row 1:<br />
Needle 1: Knit across to last 3 stitches, Knit 2 together, knit 1.<br />
Needle 2 (the instep) work as normal with no decrease.<br />
Needle 3: Knit 1, Slip 1 knit wise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch. Knit to the end of the row.<br />
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At the end of row 1 you will have 42 stitches on your needles.<br />
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Row 2: knit.<br />
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Row 3: repeat row 1.<br />
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At the end of row 3 you will be back to 40 stitches and you will be ready to knit the foot.<br />
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<b>To knit the foot:</b><br />
<b><br /></b>Just keep going, working needles 1 and 3 in plain knit stitch and your pattern across needle 2 until your foot measures about 4 cm less than the total length that you need for the finished sock. You're now ready to shape the toe.<br />
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<b>To shape the toe:</b><br />
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Row 1:<br />
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Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches. Knit 2 together. Knit 1.<br />
Needle 2: Knit 1, Slip 1 (either purl-wise or knit-wise - according to the pattern) Work another stitch in pattern. Pass the slipped stitch over the worked stitch and work to the last 3 stitches on the needle. Knit or Purl 2 together in pattern. Knit 1.<br />
Needle 3: Knit 1, Slip 1 knit-wise, Knit 1. Pass slipped stitch over knit stitch and knit to the end of the row.<br />
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At the end of this row you will have 36 stitches on the needles.<br />
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Row 2: knit on needles 1 and 3. Work pattern on needle 2.<br />
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Repeat Row 1 again. You will now have 32 stitches on the needles.<br />
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Carry on knitting row 1 on each successive row until only 12 stitches remain.<br />
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Cut the wool, thread it through a darning needle and slip the remaining 12 stitches off the needles continuing in the clockwise direction that you would have carried on knitting in. Draw the wool through all 12 stitches, pull tightly, fasten and darn in the loose ends.<br />
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And now you're all set to enjoy a PJ sofa-surfing day!<br />
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All the best,<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.8000011444092px;">Bonny x</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.8000011444092px;"><br /></span>Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-69300592221637055102016-05-04T15:55:00.002+01:002016-05-04T15:55:39.863+01:0010 Top Knitting Tips for Avoiding the "Grim Ripper" ...<div class="MsoNormal">
I’m having a <i>rip roaring</i> time at the moment. I’m knitting a summer cardigan using a 4-ply cotton yarn in a lovely sea-blue colour that really makes my heart sing. As usual I couldn’t find a pattern that gave me what I really wanted so I’ve set about designing my own <i>perfect</i> <i>cardi</i>. Working out how to make it all hang together with consistent pattern repeats has been <i>pleasingly mathematical</i>, which isn’t to say that it’s all been plain sailing.</div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">But, over the years, I've learnt a few tricks that help make the whole business a little bit easier, and help avoid some of the inevitable ripping. Here are my top 10 tips for saving your sanity and avoiding the grim ripper ...<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">1. Work a pattern sample<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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When I knit a <i>really</i> complicated lace pattern I start off by working a sample square for a few pattern repeats using thick needles and a light coloured aran or double knitting weight wool. You’d never normally use such a thick yarn for lace, but if you practise your pattern with a thicker yarn at the outset you’ll find that it’s much easier to see what’s going on. I have rubbish eyesight so I find it really helpful to work a large-scale model of the stitch-work to get my head around the mechanics of how to put it together before I get started for real. Remember also that it’s much easier to see the stitches if you use a light coloured yarn. Black and the darker tones tend to hide stitch definition and, for those of us who are optically challenged, that's just not helpful.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">2. Work a tension sample<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Once I’ve got the pattern straight in my head I’ll try a tension sample. I’ll knit something that’s about 10 cm square using the yarn that I’m planning on using for the project. I keep a careful record of the number of stitches and rows knitted in order to double check that the garment is going to knit up to size. It’s better to realise at the outset that your tension is off-kilter with the dimensions that you’re trying to achieve. That way you can make adjustments to the number of stitches cast on, the size of needles used or the number or rows knit in order to produce something that’s going to fit comfortably. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">3. Count your stitches at the end of every row <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At the beginning I take huge care to count my stitches at the end of every pattern row just to make sure that they’re all present and correct, and that I haven’t lost any. It’s the easiest thing in the world to miss a yarn-over, and it’s best to keep a count as you go rather than race ahead to the next pattern row and have to rip back. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">4. Throw yourself a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lifeline</i><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Another really useful tip is to use a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">lifeline</i>. When I’m still lacking confidence with the pattern I put in a lifeline at the end of every pattern repeat - once I’ve counted my stitches and know that what I’ve just completed is all tickety boo (and, yes, that is a technical knitting term over here in the UK). Next I make a careful note of exactly which row my lifeline is on. Then, if I make a mistake in the next section, it’s the easiest thing in the world to rip back to my lifeline and pick up my stitches from there. With a lifeline it’s almost impossible to miss any stitches when you’re picking up, and it takes you right back to a point in the pattern where you know exactly which row you’re on and what you need to do next. To make a lifeline, just thread some mercerised cotton onto a wool needle and thread it through all the stitches on the row that you’ve just finished off correctly. Leave a length of the thread at each end without any knots so that you can easily pull it out when you’re ready.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mercerised cotton works well because it doesn’t leave many fibres behind when you pull it out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It should look something like this:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">5. Make a careful note of the row each lifeline was thrown into<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I usually work to a design in my head, so it’s quite experimental as I go along. Shaping for the armholes and the neckline always brings its own special challenges. To make my life easier I use multiple lifelines to mark the rows on which I start to shape the armhole and the neckline. Again I keep a careful record of the row number that each one corresponds to. If you’re juggling pattern repeats with shaping you’re much more likely to make a mistake on the upper sections of the front sides and the back (thus speaks the voice of bitter experience!). This is where your lifeline is most likely to save you a whole lot of ripping and angst about the exact row that you’re on. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">6. Be back to front<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">When I’m knitting a cardigan or a jumper I always, always start with the back. This is usually the largest section that you will have to knit, and I find that it’s good <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">psychologically</i> to get it out of the way first. When I’ve done the back I feel that I have, in a real sense, broken the back of the project. Ideally you never want to have any mistakes in your work, but if you make a mistake on the back, when you're still mastering the pattern, it’s probably not going to get noticed quite so much as on the front.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">7. Be a yarn blocker<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I'm a big fan of blocking. It turns curled-up knitting into a well-behaved textile that is so much easier to match, sew up and finish. And if you're working on a </span>lace pattern you really won’t know what you’ve got until you’ve blocked it. With mohair lace patterns blocking is even more important. It opens up the holes that you’ve worked in the fabric and sets your design into the form that it was always intended to take. As a result I always take special care to block each section once it’s finished and before I try to assemble the garment.</div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">8. Keep a careful row-count <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">I’m sure that I’m somewhere worrying on the OCD scale, and, at the risk of ringing alarm bells, I’m going to admit that I like to keep a careful written row count. You could use a row counter that attaches to your needle, but they’re awkward on the circular needles that I normally use, and they’re easy to overlook. I’m <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Old School</i>: I prefer to use a pencil and a notebook. I find that an accurate row count really helps when I’m trying to match front and back armholes. So many patterns just tell you to knit to a dimension, as in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">shape the armhole when the work measures so many centimetres</i>. This is all fine and dandy, but it’s so easy to persuade yourself that you’ve reached your destination when you’re doing a front to match a back and feeling just a little bit jaded/ been-there-before about the whole business. Sure you can carefully measure your work with a tape and judge the sizing by sight, but I like the security of knowing that I’ve done exactly the same number of rows on each side at the front and on the back. It’s possible that you could undergo some sort of physical or mental trauma mid-project that could change the tension of your work, but let’s face it: it’s a bit unlikely, and, if something like that happens, you’re probably going to have much bigger issues to think about than the niggledy mismatch between the back and front armholes of your not-quite-perfect summer cardigan ... .<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">9. Don’t’ be square cos’ your stitches aren’t …<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Remember when picking up stitches to knit the front bands on the perpendicular to the grain of the main body that your stitches are not square: they’re rectangular. As a result you probably need to pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows so that your bands sit flat. Check out your tension sample to see that you get the fractional pick-up rate right. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">10. Hide your sins in the seams<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Working on a seamed garment gives you a special opportunity to weave loose ends into a seam where they’ll never again see the light of day. And this means that you should always, always aim to join a new yarn at the end of a row. If you’re running short of yarn, and you’re working long rows it’s tempting to try and get your value out of every last thread. Look at how much yarn you’ve got to work with and, if it isn’t at least 3 times the length of the row you need to cross, you’re probably going to have to work a join in the middle of the row where it's going to be trickier to darn in the tails.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And so that’s it: my 10 top tips for working a care-free cardigan. If you've got any special tips on how to minimise the knitting angst, please pass them on. </span><br />
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">All the best for now,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span></div>
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Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-13963092001543999162016-05-04T15:55:00.001+01:002016-05-04T15:55:25.939+01:00Swirling rose jug cover ...Well I'd better 'fess up first: I never actually set out to knit <i>another</i> jug cover. It all started in an idle moment when I was at home on my own, and I wondered whether I could knit a circle using short row shaping. Knitting a circle on four double pin needles is pretty easy, but I'd never tried it with short row shaping. So I set to work, and this is what I produced:<br />
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I love the way it swirls out from the centre like a kaleidoscope. My colours were inspired by the sea, so I thought it only fit to embellish everything using a special bead made out of sea glass, beach-combed from our village beach back on Spain's Costa Brava.<br />
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It's all really easy. Please read on if you'd like to check out the pattern:<br />
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I was aiming for a circle that would be roughly 24/ 25 cm in diameter, but you can make it smaller or larger by simply increasing of decreasing the number of stitches you cast on. Just remember that for the circle to work you <u>must have an even number of stitches.</u><br />
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Using 4 ply cotton and 2.75 mm/ UK size 12/ US size 2 needles cast on 30 stitches using the long tail cast-on method. (I used Wendy Supreme 4 ply mercerised cotton.)<br />
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Row 1: Knit 2 stitches and turn.<br />
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Row 2: Knit those first 2 stitches back to the end again.<br />
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Row 3: Knit 4 stitches and turn.<br />
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Row 4: Knit 4 stitches back to the end again.<br />
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Carry on increasing the length of the row by 2 stitches on each odd numbered row until all of the 30 stitches have been knit, ending with an even numbered row that will take you back out to the circumference of the circle that you're knitting - or the thick end of the wedge that you've just created.<br />
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Change colour and repeat the process with the second colour to create a second wedge.<br />
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For the third wedge I decided to shake things up a bit with a different stitch to add a bit more texture. Changing back to the original colour:<br />
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Row 1: Knit 2 stitches and turn.<br />
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Row 2: Knit 2 stitches back to the end again.<br />
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Row 3: Knit 4 stitches and turn.<br />
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Row 4: Knit 1 stitch, wrap the yarn forward around the needle (to create a new stitch), knit 2 together, knit 1 - and you're back out at the circumference again.<br />
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Row 5: Knit 6 stitches and turn.<br />
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Row 6: Knit 1 stitch, wrap the yarn forward around the needle (to create a new stitch), knit 2 together, wrap the yarn forward (to create another new stitch), knit 2 together, knit 1 - and you're back out at the circumference again.<br />
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Carry on like this, increasing the length of the row on every odd numbered row until all 30 stitches have been knit, and finish back on the circumference of the circle with an even row.<br />
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Having completed these 3 wedges you've made a quarter of the circle. Just keep on going, repeating the segments until you've got all the way round.<br />
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Cast off and darn in the loose ends. Sew the last segment to the first segment.<br />
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The rose in the centre was made using my sea rose corsage pattern, which you can find here: <a href="http://www.justsaying2u.com/2015/06/sea-rose-corsage.html">Sea Rose Corsage</a>. To make the rose a little more like a cabbage rose I added a second round of blue petals in the spaces behind the first set, using the same pattern.<br />
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To make the sea shell crochet edging:<br />
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Using a 2.5 mm crochet hook attach the wool that you plan on using for the trim with a slip stitch, and work a foundation row of double crochet all the way around the circumference of the circle. You need to create a total stitch count on this row that is a multiple of 6 stitches plus 1.<br />
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Chain 1 stitch, and working from left to right along the row work 1 double crochet stitch into the next stitch. * Skip 2 stitches, work 5 treble crochet stitches into the next stitch along to make the first shell. Skip 2 stitches and make a double crochet stitch into the next stitch along*. Repeat from * to * all the way round to create the edging. Fasten off with a slip stitch, and darn in the ends. </div>
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And Ta-dah! you're done: you've just made another jug cover. </div>
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I think this pattern would be great, knit in a different wool, for making a groovy circular cushion - maybe next time! </div>
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All the best for now, </div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span></div>
<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-80445081661756011912016-05-04T15:55:00.000+01:002016-05-04T15:55:13.495+01:00High on the ancient walls of Girona ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Girona is our local <i>big town </i>out in Catalonia. It's a fab little city that gets a bit overlooked, standing in the shadow of its big brother, Barcelona, just down the Costa. But if you're looking for somewhere with a history that predates the Romans, with fortified city walls that have lived through 25 sieges over the course of their long history, good food (we've got <i>El Celler de Can Roca</i>, the world's number one restaurant in town), loadsa' museums and architecture to swoon over - well, this little city could really hit your sweet spot.<br />
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It's a place that's bustling with life and activity where Emi, the Wonder Dog and I spend many a leisurely afternoon strolling around, people watching, imagining the past, admiring the present and all the while enjoying a good ice-cream. Weight-watchers beware: they make some seriously good ice-cream in this part of the world.<br />
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We start off on the banks of the River Onyar that flows through town. Crossing the bridges over the Onyar gives you some of the best views of the city, and we love the old houses that cluster along its banks with their first floor rooms leaning out over the water. To my untutored eye they don't look <i>that</i> old, but I'm reliably informed that they are medieval in origin. They were originally built to face the street that runs along the river, and their backs were attached to the city walls that used to skirt the river bank.<br />
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It's a funny thing how people's perspective and outlook changes with the times. When peace finally came the good folk of Girona chose not to live, locked in behind the ramparts, with their backs to the river. The importance of the city walls as outer fortifications declined, and little by little, matching houses appeared on the opposite bank, chinks in the walls were developed into houses that sat at odd angles to the uniform defensive facade of the other houses, shops and workrooms sprouted out of first floor rooms, and the people began to turn around and enjoy their lovely river.<br />
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These days we like to idle on the bridges and spot the river carp. There are hundreds of them darting about in the sun-dappled water.<br />
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We wind our way through narrow streets, where the sun never shines ...<br />
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... passing through the gate in the old city walls ...<br />
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... which is now guarded only by the Virgin in the alcove on the inner side of the great gate. </div>
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We climb the 90 steps up to the doors of the great Cathedral of Santa Maria. </div>
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And then we climb some more steps that lead us up to the gardens that are built into the old city walls.<br />
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These gardens have names that are like ripples through time: the French Lady's Garden, the German's Garden, harking back across the centuries to the individuals who first tended them.<br />
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On a sunny day they make pleasant places to sit in the shade and contemplate the sturdy bulk of the great cathedral.<br />
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After a while we climb the walls themselves, and peer out of the many windows and arrow slits at the world below us. </div>
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At this point Emi usually can't resist pulling on his imaginary bow string and sending a few arrows flying out from the colourful world of his nine year-old imagination at the <i>baddies</i> beyond. They're always generic, cartoon-type baddies. I gently steer him away from notions that any one of the many historical besiegers were <i>baddies.</i> As L.P. Hartley said in the Go-Between<i>:</i> T<i>he past is a foreign country: they do things differently there. </i>I think it's important to look at what's gone before with an objective detachment, and not get too self-righteous about which side one's own ancestors may have been on. </div>
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We spend some time thinking about the Romans, who built the first walls around the old city, creating a citadel, which they called <i>Gerunda. </i>They weren't wildly imaginative with this name: they appropriated it (along with the city!) from the people who first lived here, the Ausetani, a native Iberian tribal people who'd made this their home long before the Romans showed up. </div>
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When the Roman Empire fell, the city was conquered by the Visigoths, and they held it until the Moors showed up. The Catalans call their country a <i>terra de pas, </i>a place that people pass through, a thoroughfare. The Moors, however, didn't pass much further. Girona was one of their most northerly outposts, until Charlemagne showed up in 785 to besiege the city and reconquer it for Christendom. His victory wasn't totally decisive, and it wasn't until 1015 that the Moors were finally pushed back. </div>
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This part of the world became known as the <i>Spanish Marches</i>, the buffer zone between the Islamic Caliphate to the South and the Christian world of the Frankish Kings to the North. </div>
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With all this turbulent history you begin to appreciate the importance of the great city walls. Emi delights in explaining the strategy behind the way it's all been designed. There are great holes built into upper parapets where the defenders would have dropped boiling oil and all manner of other nasty surprises down on the besiegers below. Arrow slit windows built into corners gave the defenders a firing range of at least 270º, and then there are watch towers, way up high, where a sharp eyed look-out could have seen the enemy coming from miles away across the plain. </div>
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It's best to go up there when there aren't too many tourists in town. Some of the tight spots that half-starved medieval defenders were able to wriggle in and out of can get a bit uncomfortable when there's an invasion of modern day <i>besiegers</i> clad in sports clothes and armed with cameras and selfie-sticks<i>. </i>Somehow in the clamour<i> </i>it's harder to hear the echoes of the past, and the very special atmosphere of this place can get a bit lost. </div>
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But we were lucky. We more or less had it all to ourselves. </div>
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And it was hard not to feel just a little bit like Mary Poppins up there above the terracotta roofs with only the chimney stacks for company. </div>
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All the best for now,<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span>Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-44082433046988823482016-05-04T15:54:00.005+01:002016-05-04T15:54:59.280+01:00La Fosca ... and the Castle of St. Esteve de Mar, Costa Brava, CataloniaYesterday we met up with a bunch of friends for a long, lazy lunch at one of our favourite restaurants, the <a href="http://www.justsaying2u.com/2015/04/hostal-la-fosca-palamos-spain.html">Hostal La Fosca</a>. We enjoyed some fabulous food and a good catch up, and then everyone headed for the beach. The children had their hearts set on an afternoon of messing around on pedalos, the grown ups wanted to stretch out in the sun and chat, but something else, the ancient castle of St. Esteve, sitting on the near horizon caught my eye.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Fosca with the Castle of St. Esteve de Mar in the background</td></tr>
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Now I have to 'fess up: I'm not really much of a beach person. I love going to the beach, but I have to be doing things on the beach - swimming, looking for Emi's little beasts in rock pools, combing the sand for treasure in the form of shells and sea glass. This business of <i>just</i> lying in the sun is not really for me, so I peeled away from my friends on the pretext of walking the Wonder Dog to go and explore.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Fosca</td></tr>
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With the Wonder Dog trotting along at my heels, I wandered off along the coastal path to the Castle of St. Esteve, clinging to the rock face, from which it has guarded the bay of La Fosca for close to a millennium. The first documented reference to this castle appears in the year 1063.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Castle of St. Esteve de Mar, Costa Brava, Catalonia</span></td></tr>
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Originally some Roman patrician had a villa on this site. They think that he may have chosen to build it on a pre-existing Iberian settlement that fell to the Romans when they conquered this part of the world and incorporated it into their empire.<br />
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The castle takes its name from a chapel within which was dedicated to St Esteve de Mar.<br />
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Another deed of 1272 records the right of the feudal lord, who lived here, to collect a tithe of the fish landed on the beach of La Fosca, where we had lunch, and where the rest of my companions were enjoying the sun.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6gczi-LyE0j9JmVfnNOWMO_ahnddGorzizJIo11zRJyvh28FMhohjArKKi0xOuVfouvqTfZjzPAbe-DbKjM9FrCtxY6f5PzjjHRCGB6-e4gIrXL6PTUsHdKnxcJzRjwp7uwwVhUAUCw/s1600/St.+Esteve+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6gczi-LyE0j9JmVfnNOWMO_ahnddGorzizJIo11zRJyvh28FMhohjArKKi0xOuVfouvqTfZjzPAbe-DbKjM9FrCtxY6f5PzjjHRCGB6-e4gIrXL6PTUsHdKnxcJzRjwp7uwwVhUAUCw/s640/St.+Esteve+9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Castle of St. Esteve de Mar</span></td></tr>
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In 1277 it was bought on the instructions of the King, Pedro the Great, with a view to forming part of the coastal defences supporting his new port in nearby Palamós. Pedro had wanted to open another naval base north of Barcelona for his fleet, and, after some thought and advice from his ministers, chose Palamós.<br />
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By the fourteenth century it had been retired from its defensive duties and had become a farmhouse with a pretty spectacular view, where a local family lived, and, no doubt, spent much of their time looking out to sea. However in the sixteenth century, when the coast was being harried by Barbary pirates it was refortified to play its part once again in defending the coast. And much, much later, during the sad years of the Spanish Civil War, it was again refortified with barbed wire and machine guns to control the bay.<br />
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The Wonder Dog and I walked on along the path until we came upon the Cala de s'Alguer. Fishermen have lived here since the early sixteenth century, and it remains unspoilt: a little jewel of a place, frozen in time, that seems to belong to another age. Then as now, the best way in and out is by boat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ90JedOKRpeLPNoWf3kO0VZmteibkQdH0iiymETeP55EqkqXkwvOcxqtztQU8aA1iA_KckeQhA1evKBuQgweoHJLpVxPTtl-XKSUDNUarD21LuEBhTuZX4zoX_vMm86lmv4N3I4DCxQE/s1600/St.+Esteve+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ90JedOKRpeLPNoWf3kO0VZmteibkQdH0iiymETeP55EqkqXkwvOcxqtztQU8aA1iA_KckeQhA1evKBuQgweoHJLpVxPTtl-XKSUDNUarD21LuEBhTuZX4zoX_vMm86lmv4N3I4DCxQE/s640/St.+Esteve+6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Cala de s'Alguer</span></span></td></tr>
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But things could have turned out very differently. This beautiful little settlement was once ear-marked for demolition by General Franco. But, as luck would have it, on the very day on which the <i>pueblicto</i> was to be destroyed the dictator died, and it was given a reprieve in the confusion that followed. Happily it survived, and today it has listed building protection.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMalQLP6H6h9mDt_XDKWxjuQb1Zk7zLiZpKZeVzz2wk6LTHK5z0piFmymGIuLuOU23FpGTm8rdGHbSO-8ZrMgO5pZCbrNYjfK26ATVrCrqHvgQaLG5IobiAccXQjL0B-2Mu4sGqkMCNSE/s1600/St.+Esteve+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMalQLP6H6h9mDt_XDKWxjuQb1Zk7zLiZpKZeVzz2wk6LTHK5z0piFmymGIuLuOU23FpGTm8rdGHbSO-8ZrMgO5pZCbrNYjfK26ATVrCrqHvgQaLG5IobiAccXQjL0B-2Mu4sGqkMCNSE/s640/St.+Esteve+7.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cala de s'Alguer<br />
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<span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Wonder Dog and I walked back along the cliff tops enjoying that magical hour in the afternoon when the sun starts to lose some of its heat and the shadows start to lengthen.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNtdNYfjsziMCCx7QxyzxhwOqS5CS16Z7r6NDeo71d48AARfYtQqDMTgmy23FGUWUSet0CyLgyu0bbB6-jH74Sd9WaRadt6ijlO8RcS9I6KeWYTFvFZQMXvia6YkbGxl8LhWYqvoBf0E0/s1600/Castle+of+St.+Esteve+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNtdNYfjsziMCCx7QxyzxhwOqS5CS16Z7r6NDeo71d48AARfYtQqDMTgmy23FGUWUSet0CyLgyu0bbB6-jH74Sd9WaRadt6ijlO8RcS9I6KeWYTFvFZQMXvia6YkbGxl8LhWYqvoBf0E0/s640/Castle+of+St.+Esteve+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">La Fosca</span></td></tr>
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Then we came upon a rather sinister piece of graffiti. In Catalan, <i>fosa común</i> means mass grave ... . I don't know which mass grave it's referring to. It occurred to me that it might be a contemporary reference to all those poor souls who are perishing in the Mediterranean as they try to reach a safe haven here in Europe.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKz9WO2QEbNy55yyz7ccz36JqXXOIpst3HPhRrHwqYCEaSvSTRcj3FHHeHsdAkcysAh0XyMhm6rEyWFfcgUvj344tLS6e1G5DFGUpRmF7uhrITftTaMuABy4gDXO_OtN85kCRFcBamdXA/s1600/St.+Esteve+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKz9WO2QEbNy55yyz7ccz36JqXXOIpst3HPhRrHwqYCEaSvSTRcj3FHHeHsdAkcysAh0XyMhm6rEyWFfcgUvj344tLS6e1G5DFGUpRmF7uhrITftTaMuABy4gDXO_OtN85kCRFcBamdXA/s640/St.+Esteve+8.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">La Fosca</span></td></tr>
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We rounded another corner, where the graffiti artists seemed to have been in a happier frame of mind. I came upon this cheeky little chap, who reminded me of the Wonder Dog, and made me smile again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6vqQqvNCAR_6vGBUpL0jBvntVCRk7dsBGW9RRuM-Cye_mwMVwsUXaxYYeq9bfBzLeuKJcHVnjVdSuLG5sfRCviXcIBGKBW20l7lN44w_QHTRggT94dH8P15l7kLp60_Pmb0QgWn7cAUE/s1600/St.+Esteve+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6vqQqvNCAR_6vGBUpL0jBvntVCRk7dsBGW9RRuM-Cye_mwMVwsUXaxYYeq9bfBzLeuKJcHVnjVdSuLG5sfRCviXcIBGKBW20l7lN44w_QHTRggT94dH8P15l7kLp60_Pmb0QgWn7cAUE/s400/St.+Esteve+10.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Fosca</td></tr>
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All the best for now,</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span></div>
<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2124884509128755213.post-91841018377464286292016-05-04T15:54:00.004+01:002016-05-04T15:54:50.532+01:00Summer breeze lacy cardigan ...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Here's my latest creation. I've procrastinated over it for the l-o-n-g-e-s-t time. It's not difficult or involved or complicated or anything like that, but, with summer holidays and everything I've just not been able to focus on getting on with it. It's turned out pretty much as I'd hoped it would, and it's a great weight for these late summer nights or for the early days of autumn when the weather starts to cool down just a smidgeon.<br />
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It's knit with DMC Just Cotton in <i>Aguamarina</i>, Shade number 25, which is a lovely 4 ply cotton. The pattern attached is for size medium/ 36" or 92 cm bust. You can make it larger or smaller by increasing or reducing the number of stitches cast on the back and front panels by factors of 8, which is the number of stitches over which the lacy pattern repeats. I used 7, 50g balls in total. Just read on for the pattern:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBs7y8CkU4G1gvguDCbBZ-vwQtHMnukECjtkRxwDsDknAfmbo32UDH0TTjKb7EGB4L9_xMJ4FJ09ssWXXC5TKE7WOlsK-ofDuNFmiQ7bMBy8Bi2Ltm5rkE3xFkHA9OiM89qtgLcPsk1so/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+collage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBs7y8CkU4G1gvguDCbBZ-vwQtHMnukECjtkRxwDsDknAfmbo32UDH0TTjKb7EGB4L9_xMJ4FJ09ssWXXC5TKE7WOlsK-ofDuNFmiQ7bMBy8Bi2Ltm5rkE3xFkHA9OiM89qtgLcPsk1so/s640/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+collage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PUC3aflG_dqkMZbE1FIDcfW0h7j3Y2iTCJtLMA3LMP0F8gR5wDBr1TuX8lxjY6zstZR9w1R2x1321Sj4-PGkv0JOq5hvas4NimE0cXZTq8soc77x71JtEp17m-Nn7Fwdkg96y5a2jj4/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PUC3aflG_dqkMZbE1FIDcfW0h7j3Y2iTCJtLMA3LMP0F8gR5wDBr1TuX8lxjY6zstZR9w1R2x1321Sj4-PGkv0JOq5hvas4NimE0cXZTq8soc77x71JtEp17m-Nn7Fwdkg96y5a2jj4/s320/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+16.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b><b><br /></b><b>1. Knit the back</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGQPbw3G3qqV-YJgpA7QK3wbDRzaNM25pvSNXavXg4sgNc3zZpz_Zvpkj2aFNt9fvAClK7y_KoqhFRCGz0hyphenhyphenhFunn_4-bki4zZmRzh-DUFoQA6tmLnmGauYpYWtewvVOFwcTpx1yqqEiw/s1600/Summer+breeze+cardigan+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGQPbw3G3qqV-YJgpA7QK3wbDRzaNM25pvSNXavXg4sgNc3zZpz_Zvpkj2aFNt9fvAClK7y_KoqhFRCGz0hyphenhyphenhFunn_4-bki4zZmRzh-DUFoQA6tmLnmGauYpYWtewvVOFwcTpx1yqqEiw/s320/Summer+breeze+cardigan+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I always start with the back because it's the biggest piece, which has the least amount of shaping. That makes it the best place to master the lace pattern. When I'm knitting cardigans or jumpers and I've got to get the front and the back to meet in the right places for armholes and shoulder shaping I always keep count of the rows I've knit. That way, assuming that my tension doesn't undergo some seismic change during the course of the garment, I know exactly when I should be casting off to shape the armholes. It also helps to achieve symmetry in the pattern repeats as between the back and the front. You could use one of those little row-counter gizmos that sit at the end of your needles. I don't like them because I use circular needles, which they don't work so conveniently with. Added to which I always seem to forget about them, whereas if I've got my notebook open beside me I will always remember to pick up my pencil write down my rows as I finish them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveiosPL2hqHtq1gX8FDo6zc8TCCt7KetoWauRSLuW_puai4W0rRrrem5coTPbvwbgeAYcrj7bfS9Q-y8ceTnClrFCc3-DCwKtbSzYWufDoxeUkeL0n-fcDdOGsRiKvCGDVb2KviyUYZA/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgveiosPL2hqHtq1gX8FDo6zc8TCCt7KetoWauRSLuW_puai4W0rRrrem5coTPbvwbgeAYcrj7bfS9Q-y8ceTnClrFCc3-DCwKtbSzYWufDoxeUkeL0n-fcDdOGsRiKvCGDVb2KviyUYZA/s320/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Let's make a start with the edging.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip3SXMwo_oVeuscZuMsO12nU4iRY6BHJm96Fnh76DZyCYqbW9u60TjWzt0l5vfwj0Y5fizxAKiLQzsmmO9Yx4NiCVkRD2ZPlgdBh5Zejb96qHZ4HzWBDnGUpfSdHuc7zmjr0Z1oKOK0h4/s1600/Summer+breeze+cardigan+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip3SXMwo_oVeuscZuMsO12nU4iRY6BHJm96Fnh76DZyCYqbW9u60TjWzt0l5vfwj0Y5fizxAKiLQzsmmO9Yx4NiCVkRD2ZPlgdBh5Zejb96qHZ4HzWBDnGUpfSdHuc7zmjr0Z1oKOK0h4/s640/Summer+breeze+cardigan+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This repeats over 3 stitches, and then you need to add one extra stitch to get started.<br />
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Cast on 112 stitches using 2.75mm / UK size 12/ US size 2 needles.<br />
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Rows 1, 2 and 3 : Knit all stitches.<br />
Row 4 (Wrong Side i.e. you have the wrong side facing towards you as you work this row): K1, *Purl 2 together, wrap yarn around the needle, P1*, repeat from * to * to the end of the row.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO99E3y2Z83d7jttLL-fusQ2CqJAfuAwJVR2BkrsItqgBnbiX4qrnBNSFY1r2D1csKTAkv805gh2IjqO7BqYHElyIR9lbnHqJkC0ITm1pRNxYT8f4wRfdi_csGx4lvFlFVtTlqxvD_2YQ/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO99E3y2Z83d7jttLL-fusQ2CqJAfuAwJVR2BkrsItqgBnbiX4qrnBNSFY1r2D1csKTAkv805gh2IjqO7BqYHElyIR9lbnHqJkC0ITm1pRNxYT8f4wRfdi_csGx4lvFlFVtTlqxvD_2YQ/s320/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wrap the yarn around the needle, purl 1</td></tr>
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You should end this row with 112 stitches on your needle, and when you knit the next row you'll have pillars of two stitches with a space between them where you've purled 2 together during this row (row 4).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVquiI9yxa61RdtG-zPgGnULXd8Rlp2J_Oo9Ku43PVAFCmZ3uagQe0bEj1wsfEEoSO-pqKmGKD9-zryGkEEZ8OFOqbgoVvJQpN8PdfYV1JKsEwz9gr3JdAWxn2-L_-BkNxsIV6jrG8vEo/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVquiI9yxa61RdtG-zPgGnULXd8Rlp2J_Oo9Ku43PVAFCmZ3uagQe0bEj1wsfEEoSO-pqKmGKD9-zryGkEEZ8OFOqbgoVvJQpN8PdfYV1JKsEwz9gr3JdAWxn2-L_-BkNxsIV6jrG8vEo/s200/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+4.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Rows 5, 6, 7 and 8 : Knit all stitches.<br />
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Continue now to the main section which is knit in the lace pattern. This pattern works over a multiple of 8 stitches and 16 rows. Carry on as follows:<br />
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Change to 3.25 mm/ UK size 10/ US size 3 needles.<br />
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Row 1(Right Side i.e. you have the right side facing towards you as you work this row) : Knit.<br />
Row 2 and all even numbered (wrong side) rows: Purl.<br />
Row 3: K3, *bring the yarn forward to the right side of the work (<i>yfwd</i>) (see photo 1 below), Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, K1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch (psso) (see photos 2 and 3 below - the yfwd configuration when you knit creates a new stitch before your knit stitch, which replaces the stitch that you've passed over), Knit 6*. Repeat from * to * to last 5 stitches, yfwd, slip 1, Knit 1, psso, Knit 3.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBclCnxpLFu4c8gDhSzOjH_ZIj2_iQe8NDGesu65IPdMB3_IHtJ9nYXxDpJ6q9btgdrSHRxQEDswZ4migXDIbJ01qmDPymZRhPyq1fHX05yqyV6O_tFVodE5RtqOKP5rGynXb2EkBP9eM/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBclCnxpLFu4c8gDhSzOjH_ZIj2_iQe8NDGesu65IPdMB3_IHtJ9nYXxDpJ6q9btgdrSHRxQEDswZ4migXDIbJ01qmDPymZRhPyq1fHX05yqyV6O_tFVodE5RtqOKP5rGynXb2EkBP9eM/s320/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+5.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 1: yarn forward</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3cgYtQEaiAx9kpTsj5isBqvsa6aYo6uYaQ88kmxVDswxRMNEJHdi1Z0xg8Fd3wJkNfXIVxoWB84LbHniCLLs-u9_wwrPoYEPMVqVe1M10c3vA-6eEeCe7xT9rfYQ_lWHa0unIg7-NQg/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF3cgYtQEaiAx9kpTsj5isBqvsa6aYo6uYaQ88kmxVDswxRMNEJHdi1Z0xg8Fd3wJkNfXIVxoWB84LbHniCLLs-u9_wwrPoYEPMVqVe1M10c3vA-6eEeCe7xT9rfYQ_lWHa0unIg7-NQg/s320/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 2: Slip 1, knit 1 from the yarn at the front</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhAhUTlYrFHP9kBWQGS2Q4SWnFIpMOLnKKqg_g5U-XOMtAOVTSJaOHidRqfFaWGjEiRCaAF8idkFXnFvoZRNNK13J4OMqqDUEUF8wYNFa6OaVPeFGWUIfv5wR8__O3jeBJ9uoG27BhVk/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqhAhUTlYrFHP9kBWQGS2Q4SWnFIpMOLnKKqg_g5U-XOMtAOVTSJaOHidRqfFaWGjEiRCaAF8idkFXnFvoZRNNK13J4OMqqDUEUF8wYNFa6OaVPeFGWUIfv5wR8__O3jeBJ9uoG27BhVk/s320/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 3: Slip 1, Knit 1 from the yarn at the front</td></tr>
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Row 4: Purl<br />
Row 5: K1, *K 2 together, yfwd, K1, yfwd, slip 1 knit-wise, K1, psso, K3*. Repeat from * to * until last 7 stitches, K 2 together, yfwd, k1, yfwd, slip 1, K1, psso, K2.<br />
Row 6: Purl<br />
Row 7: Repeat row 3.<br />
Row 8: Purl<br />
Row 9: Knit<br />
Row 10: Purl<br />
Row 11: Knit 7, *yfwd, sl 1, K1, psso, K6*. Repeat from * to * to last stitch, Knit 1.<br />
Row 12: Purl<br />
Row 13: Knit 5, *Knit 2 together, yfwd, Knit 1, yfwd, slip 1, knit 1, psso, knit 3*. Repeat from * to * to last 3 stitches, Knit 3.<br />
Row 14: Purl<br />
Row 15: Repeat row 11.<br />
Row 16: Purl.<br />
<br />
Carry on repeating these 16 rows until the back (including the bottom edging) measures 33 cm / 13" in length - or if you'd prefer to make a longer cardigan carry on for whatever length you'd like it to measure to the bottom of the arm hole.<br />
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<u>Shape the armholes:</u><br />
<br />
I was ready to start shaping the armholes on Row 97 of the lacy pattern section, but you'll need to check your tension and measure the length of the back to decide when you're happy to shape your armholes.<br />
<br />
Row 1 of armhole/Row 97 on my tension : Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the row, and work the remainder of the row in pattern. On my work it was easy as I was on row 1 of the pattern, which was simply a knit row.<br />
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Row 2 of armhole/ Row 98 on my tension: Cast off another 4 stitches at the beginning of this row, and work the remainder of the row in pattern. In my case this was an easy row as it was all purl.<br />
<br />
By the end of these 2 rows you should have 104 stitches on your needles. You will have lost 8 stitches - 4 from either end. As the pattern works only on the knit rows you will have to calculate where you'll begin your pattern by doing a minus 5 to allow for the 4 stitches you've cast off over the first 5 stitches at the beginning of the patterned row side of the work, and carry on knitting in the pattern from there. On my work I was now on row 3 of the pattern which became: <strike>Knit 3</strike>, *<strike>yfwd, sl 1</strike>, <strike>k1</strike>, <strike>psso</strike>, k6* ... * because I'd cast off 4 stitches using the first 5 stitches of the row I started at the Knit 6 on the first pattern repeat i.e. I knit 6, *yfwd, sl 1 k1, psso, knit 6*, and carried on to the end of the row. You need to think about it a bit at first but you soon get the hang of it, especially when you can see the pattern knitting up and are able to follow it by eye.<br />
<br />
Rows 3 and 4 (99 and 100 on my work) work as normal with no stitch decreases.<br />
<br />
Rows 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 (Rows 101 -108 on my work) cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of each row, and continue to work the row in pattern.<br />
<br />
At the end of Row 12 of the armhole/ Row 108 on my tension you should have 96 stitches in total.<br />
<br />
Carry on in pattern, without any further decreases, until the depth of the armhole measures 20 cm, ending with a wrong side row.<br />
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Shape the shoulder<br />
<br />
On my tension I started to shape the shoulder on row 153.<br />
<br />
Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows i.e. Rows 1 and 2 of the shoulder shaping.<br />
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Row 3 (row 155 on my tension) Cast off 8 stitches, and continue working in pattern for the next 15 stitches. Turn. You will, at this point, have 16 stitches on your right needle.<br />
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Row 4 (working only the 16 stitches on the right needle) Cast off 4 stitches and purl across the remaining stitches in pattern. You will now have only 12 stitches.<br />
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Row 5: Cast off remaining 12 stitches.<br />
<br />
Now work the other shoulder:<br />
<br />
Row 1: With the right side facing, rejoin the yarn and cast off 32 stitches for the central neck yoke. Knit in pattern across the remaining stitches. You will have 24 stitches left on the needle.<br />
<br />
Row 2: Cast off 8 stitches and purl to the end of the row. (16 stitches)<br />
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Row 3: Cast off 4 stitches and knit across the remaining stitches in pattern.<br />
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Row 4: Cast off remaining 12 stitches.<br />
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This completes the back section.<br />
<br />
Here's a (not very high-tech) pencil drawing of what's involved in shaping the back, which will hopefully make things clear.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggOnA1vTsN1jbYzEuvHY1MaOP4a_IrY3pVOIu1MqIyhLmEr10TchOTow4PFd3fWmEpy9-yXugYxtZ6mnonbjYphjWBQcrf2dlqfd1CWlZlxn52kJq2V8IA6I9PgI5BcbIzYGPCvoOv-bM/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggOnA1vTsN1jbYzEuvHY1MaOP4a_IrY3pVOIu1MqIyhLmEr10TchOTow4PFd3fWmEpy9-yXugYxtZ6mnonbjYphjWBQcrf2dlqfd1CWlZlxn52kJq2V8IA6I9PgI5BcbIzYGPCvoOv-bM/s640/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+9.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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<b>2: Knit the Left Front</b><br />
<b><br /></b>Cast on 55 stitches using 2.75 mm/ UK size 12/ US size 2 needles.<br />
<br />
Work the first 7 rows for the edging as outlined for knitting the back.<br />
Row 8 of the edging: knit 27, knit into the front and back of the next stitch and then knit to the end of the row. In this way you will end row 8 with 56 stitches, which gives you the correct number (a factor of 8) required for the repeats of the lace pattern in the main section.<br />
<br />
Change to 3.25 mm/ UK size 10/ US size 3 needles and work in the lace pattern as outlined for knitting the back until the work measures 24cm / 9 ½".<br />
<br />
Shape the V-neck:<br />
<br />
Start to shape the V-neck on a wrong side row. On my left front I started to shape the work on row 68 (row 4 of the lacy pattern). Cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of this row and every fourth row for the next 76 rows . On my work this involved casting off 1 stitch on rows 68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92, 96, 100, 104, 108, 112, 116, 120, 124, 128, 132, 136, 140 and 144, resulting in a decrease of 20 stitches in total on the V-edge of the left front. These decreases, being on purl rows, do not affect your pattern calculations, which operate only on knit rows, and start from the other side.<br />
<br />
Shape the arm hole (and carry on shaping the V-neck):<br />
<br />
Once your work measures 33 cm you need to start shaping the armhole as well as carrying on with the V-shaping at the other side on purl rows. Cast off 4 stitches on the next right side row. On my work this was row 97 (row 1 of the lacy pattern). With the V-decreases at the opposite edge this left me with 44 stitches on the needle.<br />
<br />
Work 3 rows without any stitch decreases on the arm-hole side of the left front.<br />
<br />
On the next right side row (row 101 on my work) cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the row, and repeat for the next 3 right side rows (finishing with the last cast-off on row 107). You will have cast off a total of 4 stitches on these right side rows to complete the shaping of the armhole, but you need to carry on with the cast-offs on the knit rows to continue shaping the V-neck.<br />
<br />
Continue until the armhole measures 20cm, and then start shaping the shoulder.<br />
<br />
Shape the shoulder:<br />
<br />
On the next right side row (row 153 on my work) cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the row, and work across the remainder of the row in pattern.<br />
<br />
Work the next wrong side row (row 154 on my work) as normal.<br />
<br />
On the next right side row (row 155 on my work) cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the row, and work across the remainder of the row in pattern.<br />
<br />
Work the next wrong side row (row 156 on my work) as normal.<br />
<br />
On the next right side row (row 157 on my work) cast off the remaining 12 stitches.<br />
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Here's another one of my homespun diagrams to show you what's involved.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BpXi2mSobkJW2uV-1SOZXVkI0mu8MAVnxuLTluiq2u1X8gfAB8-NCcPPtJV4M09Sy2T0RASzBwLqSc8rVybtctHRXZ6Ys8s5M0qXdoGQvW4UbeGG9em-sfpPLIQXQCp-XfjJ5nhk-sI/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1BpXi2mSobkJW2uV-1SOZXVkI0mu8MAVnxuLTluiq2u1X8gfAB8-NCcPPtJV4M09Sy2T0RASzBwLqSc8rVybtctHRXZ6Ys8s5M0qXdoGQvW4UbeGG9em-sfpPLIQXQCp-XfjJ5nhk-sI/s640/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+11.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>3: Knit the right front</b><br />
<br />
Cast on 55 stitches using 2.75 mm/ UK size 12/ US size 2 needles.<br />
<br />
Work the first 7 rows for the edging as outlined for knitting the back.<br />
Row 8 of the edging: knit 27, knit into the front and back of the next stitch and then knit to the end of the row. In this way you will end row 8 with 56 stitches, which gives you the correct number (a factor of 8) required for the repeats of the lace pattern in the main section.<br />
<br />
Change to 3.25 mm/ UK size 10/ US size 3 needles and work in the lace pattern as outlined for knitting the back until the work measures 24cm / 9 ½".<br />
<br />
Shape the V-neck:<br />
<br />
Start to shape the V-neck on a right side row. On my left front I started to shape the work on row 69 (row 5 of the lacy pattern). Cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of this row and every fourth row for the next 76 rows . On my work this involved casting off 1 stitch on rows 69, 73, 77, 81, 85, 89, 93, 97, 101, 105, 109, 113, 117, 121, 125, 129, 133, 137, 141 and 145 resulting in a decrease of 20 stitches in total on the V-edge of the left front. These decreases, being on the knit rows, do affect your pattern calculations, and for each row you have to discount one stitch on where you start on your pattern repeats.<br />
<br />
Shape the arm hole (and carry on shaping the V-neck):<br />
<br />
Once your work measures 33 cm you need to start shaping the armhole as well as carrying on with the V-shaping at the other side on purl rows. Cast off 4 stitches on the next wrong side row. On my work this was row 98 (row 2 of the lacy pattern). With the V-decreases at the opposite edge this left me with 44 stitches on the needle.<br />
<br />
Work 3 rows without any stitch decreases on the arm-hole side of the left front.<br />
<br />
On the next wrong side row (row 102 on my work) cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the row, and repeat for the next 3 right side rows (finishing with the last cast-off on row 108). You will have cast off a total of 4 stitches on these right side rows to complete the shaping of the armhole, but you need to carry on with the cast-offs on the knit rows to continue shaping the V-neck.<br />
<br />
Continue until the depth of the armhole measures 20cm, and then start shaping the shoulder.<br />
<br />
Shape the shoulder:<br />
<br />
On the next wrong side row (row 154 on my work) cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the row, and work across the remainder of the row in pattern.<br />
<br />
Work the next right side row (row 155 on my work) as normal.<br />
<br />
On the next wrong side row (row 156 on my work) cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the row, and work across the remainder of the row in pattern.<br />
<br />
Work the next right side row (row 157 on my work) cast off the remaining 12 stitches.<br />
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And, as before, here's another scruffy diagram of what's involved:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTL0KQPIpqGq5E3vg6k1GYn1vBa1R9oYtjh0dfXjN_F0yGFvSktQDBqR5Hd4sVy3hk5hXdSczGEKMlmUfI4rXA8i7ijxzM3QVDHPVVYugcFaKqe3QBogCMuNKYmO8PFmTHT-PRj9UKbEM/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTL0KQPIpqGq5E3vg6k1GYn1vBa1R9oYtjh0dfXjN_F0yGFvSktQDBqR5Hd4sVy3hk5hXdSczGEKMlmUfI4rXA8i7ijxzM3QVDHPVVYugcFaKqe3QBogCMuNKYmO8PFmTHT-PRj9UKbEM/s640/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+12.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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<div>
<b>4. Knit the sleeves (both the same)</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Cast on 55 stitches using 2.75 mm/ UK size 12/ US size 2 needles.<br />
<br />
Work the first 7 rows for the edging as outlined for knitting the back.<br />
Row 8 of the edging: knit 27, knit into the front and back of the next stitch and then knit to the end of the row. In this way you will end row 8 with 56 stitches, which gives you the correct number (a factor of 8) required for the repeats of the lace pattern in the main section.<br />
<br />
Change to 3.25 mm/ UK size 10/ US size 3 needles and work in the lace pattern as outlined for knitting the back. On rows 8 and 16 of each pattern repeat knit into the front and back of the first and last stitches, increasing the number of stitches on the needle by 2.<br />
<br />
Carry on in this way, working in pattern - you need to add one stitch to your pattern calculations on each knit row after each increase row - until you have 92 stitches on the needles i.e. row 112.<br />
<br />
Rows 113 to 128, cast off one stitch at the beginning of every row, and continue to work in pattern.<br />
<br />
Row 129. Knit. You will now have 76 stitches on the needle.<br />
<br />
Row 130. Cast off all 76 stitches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNTONcf7k3cm_eAR2v_L8Thrs2kYnV-K2-mzFjkz2mX0jI6gPAZKKTMQQh_KUX-rN4DAs1bV2kSinEgKuzerXR3zL3L46Zc7cP10pWFed5DI3S-RuBKEFpYoxtUxper7qmSgtmgMMfqA/s1600/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHNTONcf7k3cm_eAR2v_L8Thrs2kYnV-K2-mzFjkz2mX0jI6gPAZKKTMQQh_KUX-rN4DAs1bV2kSinEgKuzerXR3zL3L46Zc7cP10pWFed5DI3S-RuBKEFpYoxtUxper7qmSgtmgMMfqA/s640/Summer+Breeze+Cardigan+13.jpg" width="452" /></a></div>
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<b>4: Block the sections of the cardigan and sew up.</b><br />
<br />
<b> 5: Knit the button and button hole bands.</b><br />
<br />
These are knit separately, sewn to the left and right fronts and then joined using a kitchener seam in the middle of the neck yoke section.<br />
<br />
Let's start with the button band, which we will sew to the left front.<br />
<br />
Cast on 5 stitches using the 2.75 mm/ UK size 12/ US size 2 needles and work in moss stitch (knit 1, purl 1) on each row. Work until the band is of a sufficient length to go all the way up the side opening of the V-neck, and around the back to half way along the central neck yoke. Slip stitches onto a stitch holder and sew into position all the way around leaving a few centimetres un-sewn at the back, where this band will be joined to the button hole band with a kitchener seam.<br />
<br />
Sew the buttons in place on the button band, spacing them at regular distances from one another on the front section.<br />
<br />
Now we need to make a start on the button hole band. Cast on 5 stitches using the 2.75 mm needles and work in moss stitch (knit 1, purl 1) on each row. Place this over the button band, and when you reach the point at which you need to make a button hole: knit 1, knit 2 together, yfwd, knit 1. Then carry on with the next row in normal moss stitch. This will produce a button hole.<br />
<br />
I like to button the button hole band in place as I go so that I can get an accurate idea of where each button hole needs to be.<br />
<br />
Carry on until it's the desired length to meet up with the button band in the middle of the back yoke section, and then, without casting either band off, join them with a kitchener seam.<br />
<br />
Sew the final section of the button band and button hole bands in place and - phew - you're done!<br />
<br />
All the best for now,<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: blue; font-family: "lucida handwriting"; font-size: 22px; line-height: 30.7999992370605px;">Bonny x</span><br />
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<br />Bonny Bonafillahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17735110907048794437noreply@blogger.com